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I just bought two of them and they are both fine. The one thing I noticed that on both, the bonnet caps on top (the rounded screw cap on top of the faucet) were both loose. I just hand tightened both of them and the feel of the faucet action after that was much less loose feeling. Any chance...

I had two 525SS faucets as well, bought at separate times though. One worked great, and the other leaked and wouldn't stay closed all the way, even when new. I should have returned it then, but got by by tightening the living crap out of it, even though you're not supposed to. I replaced all...

Sorry for the day dude. I may have you beat though. I wasted an entire brew day because the meathead at the LHBS have me 10 pounds of carapils instead of 2-row. Didn't realize it until my OG that was supposed to be about 1.060 ended up at 1.020. Ended up finding a few grains in the paper bag he...

I use it chiefly to let me know when I am getting close to boil and how much time I have before it starts. I also use it to monitor temp after the boil. I let it sit to let the convections stop after stirring a bit to whirlpool before trying to cool. I keep an eye on it to make sure it does...

Great to know. Thanks for the update. Sounds like the flame can get pretty hot and still support the 1.5.

Thanks beerman. This was resolved earlier in the thread. It wasn't an equipment issue as much as a documentation clarity issue.

I have Blichmann stuff, and while yes, it is expensive, it'll last a lifetime. Then again, I built that up over a period of 18 years. BUT...if you are in for the long haul and do not mind the initial capital investment, I have nothing but good things to say about Blichmann stuff. I use gravity...

Good to know dcbc. Thanks for the feedback. Definitely makes me feel much better.

Just heard back from Blichmann. The part in the TOP owner's manual about measuring the recirculated wort to calculate the heat rate was a mistake. It should have been the rise in the mash bed, and not the wort. I've been told by them that they will make the correction in their literature. I...

Oh, and yes...my primary concern was overshoot of the recirculation, leading to overshoot of the mash bed. I also wanted to have some kind of understanding of the consistent heating rate so I could use the com cable to program in step mashes, which requires you to know what your heating rate is...

Hey dcbc, I cannot speak for ArcaneXor, but for me, I am probably one of the more anal people when it comes to brewing process you'll meet. I've had my eye on this TOP for a long time, and I read all I could find on it. So when it came time to set it up, I already knew what the specs were in...

If it turns out you are wrong and the wort recirc rate really is what they mean by the 1.5 degrees / minute, then there will be a lot more people who are going to have serious issues getting their burners to allow that while igniting consistently, as it is a pretty low flame on mine. The low...

Thanks ArcaneXor for bringing all this to light. I have been pulling my hair out, running a gajillion tests, chewing through probably a half tank of propane running said tests, as well as peppering Northern Brewer and Blichmann with questions every day about this. I have sent an email asking...

But the manual also states this: Specifically, you should be able to reduce your heat to achieve an average heating rate of 1.5 F/min or less. To do this, recirculate your wort at the above rates or faster (use a stop watch and known volume to measure flow rate). Then apply heat on your...

Are you sure about that? The Blichmann TOP instructions say to figure out your heating rate, which should be 1.5 degrees per minute by recirculating your wort and using your recirculated wort temp to calculate this rate, not the mash bed.

Are you guys paying attention to the actual heating rate of the return wort? I ran another test today and it took only 4 minutes to go from 148 to 168 at the lowest flame I could set so that the electrode could fire up the burner consistently. That leaves me with a rate of 5 degrees / minute...

I've tried all different air damper settings. I really think it's just a case of trying to keep the flame too low to start with. The one gas outlet that the electrode sparks will ignite, but the gas flow is not enough to spread to the other outlets. With the faster flow rates that the 20G...

I figured that might be the case. No problem when the gas is turned up higher. The problem is I am using this burner in a RIMS setup (Tower of Power) and I need that low flame setting for a slow rate of heat. Kind of takes away the automation part when I have to adjust the gas rate every time...

Hey folks, Has anyone run into this: When the flow of gas is at a very low level, I can light the burner with no problem, as long as a kettle is not on it. When I put the kettle on the burner, I am unable to light it. It works just fine at higher gas flows, but at a very low rate, it will...

Hey all, For those who are using the TOP, I have a question for you. I am having a lot of problems getting the burner to light automatically at a very low gas rate. Blichmann recommends setting your flame to achieve 1.5 degrees F per minute, but when have my TopTier burner set for that...