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A foam stopper should have allowed plenty of gas exchange, so there goes that theory, maybe as someone else said its just time for a bigger flask.

strange when i use a stir plate i never get a head to form, the yeast just seem to reproduce and don't bother with krausening, by any chance were you using an airlock. I don't, i want the yeast to have as much acess to oxygen as they can because they require the oxygen to reproduce efficently...

Over in the uk liqiud tinned kits are the norm for newbies, however they tend to be a bit sticky, possibly because the nutrients must be damaged by the process. I've heard of a few people brewing these kits who used the crappy yeast that comes with the kit as nutrients for a better quality dry...

I seem to have the opposite view to many others on this thread when it comes to my own home brew, i find im super critical and that i find faults that others wouldn't even begin to notice. Most people are i try it on are pleasantly surprised and show quite a bit of interest. The exception is...

Not sure if links to other forums are frowned upon or not, so i deliberately didn't post a link. Its simplicity itself though, 50% wheat and 50 % MO, obviously you can tinker and put in some crystal or whatever but thats the bare bones of the recipe.

thanks for confirming that for me Yooper.

It works well by all accounts, a uk based forum i also post on has a hefe recipe using pale malt (which in 95% of cases in the uk will be MO) running to 17 pages with lots of happy customers :ban:

Thanks for the suggestions Schlenkerla, unfortunately this one is already fermenting, i was shying away from the lactose more because of the bottom burps that tend to come with it :D . I'll be sure to let you know if my K-sorb, campden plans works out, or even if it doesn't.

I asked the same question not so long ago in the cider section. Not that keen on using artifical sweetners or lactose/not sure it would taste right so im going down the road the fruit squeezers use. Im going to keep tasting till it hits the desired gravity and sweetness and then hit it with...

i've done a 3 oz addition of cascades at 15 mins into a golden ale and im very pleased with the results :fro: . Its has the right amount of bittering and the flavour and aroma are the best i've acheived. Also very easy to do rather than a 100 and 1 hop additions that i see in some recipes.

In hindsight this is bad advice, i got mine from a highly reputable source that reconditions them to a high standard, ie all checked and and faulty bits replaced. I don't know were you got yours or what condition they are in so lisen to Dudes advice on this one.

1. You need to do something to get rid of the smell otherwise it will taste you first few beers (you'd be surprised how much) i would clean it with sodium percarbonate/oxyclean product these are great for shifting the smells in cornys. Just a few tablespoons in say half a gallon of boiling water...

:) Ive read it (almost like a rite of passage that thread), but to be honest looking for useful info on the thread (apart from the first 10-20 pages) is a serious PITA and not worth the hassle. Also noticed when you post a quesion on it that you get zero replies (unless your lucky) because...

Has anyone tried stopping the yeast early with pottasium sorbate like the grape squeezers do if they want a sweet wine. Im using the 3068 yeast which isn't that flocculant, after hitting the yeast with potassium sorbate do the yeast die or just stall, if they die are they more prone to...

Set up a 20L batch of TC with 500g muscavodo sugar using wyeast 3068 strain as suggested in the first post. Will report back the results when they are in.

I've read this also, but i don't think its the hop plants that are toxic to them, i think its just the flowers ie the stuff we use. My dogs munched one of my young plants and it didn't fizz on them at all (p*ssed me off no end though :D )

I wouldn't bother, i had a similar quandry, i was trying to make any easy drinking summer beer ended up with just over 4 gallons with what was going to be 6%. I was going to add some boiled water the next day before the yeasties entered the anerobic stage but was to slow and missed the...

maybe you meant to say that you stir the mash after each addition of sparge water (that is if you are batch sparging and are not fly sparging).

agree with the above its most likely causing some degassing to occur.

sounds great, not sure i can get my hands on simcoe over here but im going to have a good hunt around and see if i can.