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You have misinterpreted the temperature of the topic. Everyone's talking about it and no one is avoiding it. There are a lot of theories about why things are declining and it's probably a little of everything. From a specific beer consumption perspective: A large portion of craft enthusiasts...

The longevity of whole cone is abysmal. What is your motivation for using them over pellets?

The kernels need to be a little finer than cracked. That's the main problem. Don't just take what they give you. Ask for a slightly finer crush.

These got planted as tiny Cascade rhizomes this May so I'll take it. I screwed a few shelf brackets to the posts and another one at the peak to hold the twine away from the building. Lots of cones..

On one hand, Ihave always created kits based on comp-vetted recipes which is why the catalog isn't 20 pages deep. I guess it's true that this is the first time I'm leaning into it directly after winning. The Stout actually scored a 48 a couple years ago and that Marzen also took a gold and 3rd...

Take 15% off any or all of the three gold medal kits with coupon code GOLDMEDALBEER The coupon is valid for Mark it Zero, Oktober Anytime, and Husky Patriots.

If you had to discard wort because your fermenter was too full, you need to tweak your volumes calculation. Most likely, you didn't boil off as much volume as the software profile initially predicted. If you're running the 120v version, the boil off is closer to .5 an hour. It certainly was NOT...

Yeah, we used to use John Guest 5/8" BSP x 5/16" push before the duotights became available.

If it has to make a bunch of jumps in bore size between the tubing and the faucet, the added turbulence created will likely negate the use of 3mm ID in the first place.

That main issue is that there is a deficiency in available duotight fitting variety in that size. The one main missing piece is the Female Beer Thread x 6.35mm Push. I've looked for it in all the brands and can't find it. An alternative is to use tailpieces with 3/16 barbs and heat stretch...

I'm firmly in the camp of "leave behind what you reasonably can" .....but not at the expense of more than a few minutes of time or a couple dollars in extra hardware.

Brag:

The big cylinder with the holes is an extra redundant redundancy. The big TC lid has a built in emergency PRV. The spunding is your next PRV that is adjustable (the one on top with the sanitizer cup) and then the side one is just a big piston back up in case everything else gets clogged.

The valve on the foundry can also be rotated to get the pickup up about 2.5" off the bottom of the boiler. Just make sure you're always turning the valve clockwise.

SInce hazy pale ale really isn't a recognized style, it's just a matter of what you'd specifically like to get out of it. If a regular 6-7% hazy IPA is a little too "big" just scale down the gravity and bitterness while keeping the whirlpool/dry hop about the same. I would ditch the dextrose.

Nothing wrong with the way the guy in the video did it. I've done the conversion 10 different ways. I've cut the square holes for mounted outlets, it's just a major pain. I've also just run a cord in and a cord out basically an extension cord folded in half where the fold is right at the back of...

Agreed. That's why I said almost all. When I do a search for outdoor propane burner, I had to scroll for a while before I found any questionable ones. If I had to describe ones that I wouldn't trust with a full 15 gallons of liquid, it's the ones where the legs are just bent up flat bar. If the...

not at all. I just know that fully integrated anything is bad when no company is guaranteed to stay in business or continue supporting a product even if they do. You're right, Spike doesn't have a highly computerized micro brewing system. It's essentially the opposite end of the spectrum from...

15/16 gallons is not really that big. It's about 16" in diameter. Almost all the propane burners out on the general market can handle it and certainly 100% of the ones marketed by homebrewing suppliers can.

When you look on the back of the controllers themselves, you'll see exactly two blade terminals with no connectors on them. That's the heating relay dry contacts. If you run an extension cord in you'd just remove a little of the outer jacket insulation, find the black wire and cut it. Crimp on...