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Use heat. Boiling water bath.

For people that want to simplify the behavior of this module on the boil side: Long press the knob, rotate to BSET, press. Rotate counter clockwise until it says "BO" and then set it to P50. Then set the time to 2 hours. Set the next slot to the same P50 and time "END". Now you'll be back at...

They are trying to keep the last of the brewing supply stores in business. I know it's frustrating to be a customer of such stores these days but the alternative is that they all close. Back when I first opened my store in 2014, the local clubs would hit up whoever they could to pull off a...

Do you have any idea how frustrating it is that I typed up the exact things you need to know and do to fix your problem but you disregarded the post completely? This is because you still have Boil Acceleration enabled. In post #7 I wrote: In order for the DSPR320 to operate INTUITIVELY, you...

Morebeer does put a PRV on the top but there's no reason for it in the assembly. You just loosen the brass cap on the top so that when you attach a low pressure CO2 source on the side so that the CO2 leaks at the top. Then after about 60 seconds of purging, snug up the cap and then turn the...

I'm willing to get some measurements on the 35L version of the brewzilla to make sure the parts all line up to put the whirlpool just above the built in false bottom. I have one in the store but I won't be back there until Tuesday morning. From memory: 1. Once the stock valve/bulkhead combo...

If you know your starting water stats, a reasonable approximation is to just reduce the starting numbers by 95% for the RO profile you're starting with. It's going to be pretty close to zero so even if you set distilled as the source it's close enough.

I'm sure it probably works fine, but the corded drills specifically meant for mixing buckets of drywall mud and other goopy job site stuff are so much better because they achieve their low speed by gearing down the high speed motor. The ones that are variable speed via how hard you squeeze the...

The solo can be run as no sparge most of the time. When you start approaching the max grain capacity of the basket, it may be necessary to hold back some of that total water and sparge it when the basket gets lifted.

Share your last recipe via the "share" button on brewfather so we can see all the parameters in detail including the equipment profile. If you're short on volumes at the end, one of the losses parameters is set incorrectly. You set a 1.25 boil off. Is that what you measured? The sightglass gives...

Nothing is impossible. This is a mod I made to a 100L brewzilla but it works on all the sizes. The bottom port in the skirt is where the stock drain valve usually is. The upper port is a fresh hold drilled for the whirlpool fitting. On the inside it looks like this... the intent was to get...

You can edit the profile to set the water/grain ratio a little lower to make it work. The built in profiles are just a suggested starting point.

You want a low speed, high torque drill. USUALLY that's a ubiquitous feature on cordless drills but not on corded. However, you can get a good low speed paddle mixer type drill at Harbor Freight that will do the job.

You could clean the lines but if you do want to replace them, that 3" round cap is just press fit into the tube. A flat screw driver will pry it out. it looks like the previous owner custom fit a little digital LCD thermometer into the cap that now has a dead battery.

How about making life easy for everyone and provide a link to the auction you won. It would solve several mysteries.

I'm sure it doesn't stay perfectly still because particles just don't do that very well but how much it mixes is a bit of a mystery. My Blichmann kettle sight glass will stay almost 100% water through the entire mash if I don't blow into the top to exchange it. It's a more isolated chamber than...

This also gets to the topic of how hot you'd allow any system to heat the wort in an effort to ramp the total mash upwards. In other words, if you want to move your mash from 150 to 158F, setting the RIMS output temp to 158F will essentially never get the mash up to 158F. At the very least...

Are you using LD carlson branded Phosphoric acid to acidify the mash?

With only 2mL or so to inject, I'd probably thread the PRV out of the fermzilla lid and inject it through there. It's a 3 second operation and the oxygen ingress would be infinitesimally small. If it's under pressure, take the gas hose off a grey QD, inject into the hole of the QD with a blunt...

My strategy would be to dial the max power down a 10 percent at a time until you find that it will no longer maintain the temp set point, then go back up a bit until it does. Also get into your advanced options menu and set the cycle time to the lowest number.. I think it's 1 second.