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I haven't considered it but I have an SS UNI 2.0 in the shop to try it out on.

I have a 20V DeWalt that I basically compromised on because I already had a ton of 20V batteries. Skip it. I brought it to my shop for cleaning up around the parking lot and such but there's no way it's going to handle a typical rural property. The ones that compete are the big 60V.

I'm pretty confident that all the brewing software has the concept of equipment profile and batch size scaling. The popular and still growing favorite seems to be BrewFather. The equipment profile is basically batch size, vessel size, extraction efficiency, losses... So, if you have a profile...

I'm just not going to take it apart ever until it makes noise or stops working. 8 years for a $140 pump, it owes me nothing.

2 minutes at boiling temps is way more than enough, but it's also giving the valves and tubing a bit of time to heat up since they do have a non-zero thermal mass. More cavitation happens at higher temps and/or when the pump output is unrestricted so: The higher the temp, the more restricted...

The funny thing is that I had long forgotten about some of friction I received back when this was initially posted. Reading back through, I could tell that I was defensive about it but I have some better perspective about it now. I think we tend to assume that our reputation follows us around...

I assume you're using the the DSPR120. If that's the case, I agree that the bAST and bTSP functions are critical features that no other controller has. I don't like using those functions on the DSPR320 as there are more intuitive ways to achieve the same thing.

I'm not a fan of trying to do the mash recirculation through the sidewall when doing BIAB because it requires you to drape the bag under something and it never neatly folds over the lip of the kettle nicely. I think going through the lid is the way.

I assume this is tongue in cheek, but just in case, keep in mind that many people were drooling over and aspiring to build this when I first go into brewing:

A lot of my feedback on these questions will depend on specifically what kind of fermenting vessel it is. For example, if it's a conical that has a sample port, I don't see any issues so far. If it's a bucket or vessel with only top access, it means that you were messing with the beer too much...

30 grams for 500mL for pour overs.

The junction between the solid stainless probe and the braided wire is not waterproof. You likely flooded it and it's done. You can get replacement probes for that one.

Regular ball lock cornies probably would have fit without the hack job. Those converted pin locks are short and fat.

I like practical analogies. Think of the headspace of a keg as the lobby at a concert venue and the beer as the actual performance space. 1000 people are lined up outside. They let all the people into the lobby all at once an hour early so they are all crammed in banging elbows constantly. They...

A corny keg will definitely suck air in through the lid under a mild vacuum. It's made to seal under pressure but the bale handle is just there to hold the gasket in the seat so you can get the pressure started. It's not strong enough to hold the lid in place under vacuum.

Sure, gas struts will work fine. The challenge working will these is finding the correct length and mounting points but in general, the strut is going lay almost horizontal in the closed position. Don't think of it as staying vertical as it lifts and lowers. No room for that.

Did you cool the sample down to room temp before you took the reading? I target a pH of 5.3 to 5.35 because even if I miss a little plus or minus, it's fine. Was this distilled water you started with? If not, what is the salts profile?

I'm on the fence about it to be honest. Brulosophy: Out of the three previous xBmts we’ve performed on this variable, the results from two have suggested higher amounts of kettle trub present during fermentation produced no perceptible differences in a Cream Ale or Vienna Lager, while tasters...

Sure, but then I would heed the advice given in post #11. Just because there is power on the terminals doesn't mean it's getting to the module inside because there are pressure fit connections inside the case and they could be a little corroded. If you want to just skip ahead, I'd recommend...

That already looks like it's pretty well suited for dropping in over the top without butchering the cooler wall. Show a wider angle picture with the rest of the AC unit. It