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Thanks for the links and the anectodes. We'll see what happens with this one. Lucky I have not put ginger in any of the other beers I have in the pipeline.

the Amarillo was boiled for 60 minutes. the Fuggles was boild for the last 10 minutes. I think that other posters are right in that my late extract additons ramped up my hop utilization. Hopefully it will get better with time. I'll tast again after it's been in the secondary for a couple...

The recipe 60 minute boil 7lb LME (3.5lb @ boil, 3.5lb @ 30 min) Steeped Grains: 0.5 Lb Dextrin 0.5 lb American Crystal 40L 1 oz Amarillo Hops @ Boil 1 oz Fuggle hops @50 min 1 tblspn fresh ground ginger @boil 0.5lb honey @ boil So I just tasted the wort after taking a gravity...

Sorry, to waste your time. I'll read the sticky.

What are the pitfalls of shortening the time to bottling after fermentation is complete after 7-10 days. Baically what will happen if i just go straight to bottle after 7-14 days. Right now I have a beer I am planning on doing 2 weeks primary and then bottle for 3 weeks. This particular beer...

If available where you are buy some "Hazed and Infused" made by Boulder Beer Co. It is dry hopped and the most delicious beer ever.

I am in the middle of a brew where i held half the extract for the last 20 minutes of the boil. The color is very light. This batch is not rready yet though, so I don't know how the flavor will be affected. However, I have read that there is a risk of additional bittering from this technique...

Interesting. I got 1.04 by modifying the PPG for the steeped grain. You guys a most likely correct about taking my OG reading of the top of a poorly mixed wort. I'll leave it be, thanks for the advise.

It is possible i measured incorrectly. But beercalculus.com estimates an OG of 1.04 so I am close.

So i am racking the following to the secondary tomorrow. 5 Gallon batch 7lb Munich Extract Steeped Grains: 3/4lb Dextrine 1/2lb Victory 1/4 Dark Munich Hops: 1oz cluster @ boil 1oz Tettnang @ 30 min Yeast: European Ale Yeast My OG was only 1.036 @ 75 degrees. Is...

Thanks for you opinion. I think I am going to go all 4 oz at boil, and then pick up some more aroma hops later for dry hopping. Doing that will get me up to 43.6 IBU according to beercalculus.com. Any potential pitfalls from that plan?

It is supposed to be in the English pale genre. So, assuming that for this batch I am stuck with 2 oz of willamette and 2 of of fuggles. How can I maximize bitterness? Pitch the 2 oz of willamete and 1 oz of fuggles at boil, and then dry hop with 1 oz fuggles?

I am doing a recipe that is estimated to have 6.8 BHI 24.7 IBU. How bitter is that? Can someone help me guage the level of bitterness I am creating? Here is the recipe. 5 gallon batch 9 lbs Light Malt Extract Syrup 1/2 lb American Crystal 120L 60 minute Boil Willamette - 1 oz at...

Yea, I think I was just being paranoid as I am a new brewer. The instructions on the yeast said between 70-75 degrees. 74 is the temperature of the wort, the room is actually set for 71 degrees. Interesting how much heat fermentation creates. Alos interesting to wathc the color change. It has...

I'm using a European Ale Yeast (don't have other specifcs right now) at 74 degrees. Thanks for the reassurrance.

I am brewing an Altbier style using a partial mash. I am noticing that as it is fermenting, the odor from the brew is quite strong. It doesn't smell quite like rotten eggs, more of a sweet malty smell. However, it isn't exactly pleasant. Anyway, is this normal? I don't recall the ESB I am...