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If your readings are good and you wanted an OG of 1.052 then no, why would that be a mistake? A lot of people do that if they overshoot their OG.

Use a hand crank and don't sweat it :)

I just got home.. I say we move it farther south :)

Damn I over slept! I'll be there around 1030-11, But I am going to make it to this one

No Cigars? :(

So who is sending out the address? I am actually going to make it this time :) No business trips, no events scheduled, and the wife is working that day.

few weeks if sealed up

Hmm the prices are great but super fast shipping? they must have fixed the 3-6 day delay

Malto dextrine is your best bet if all you want to change is the body, and you like the kit and don't want to adjust the flavor. mashing higher will make the beer sweeter as well as add some body, plus you will need to adjust the hops for the increased sweetness. Increasing the ABV will...

eye dropper into a refractometer :)

I would stay away from rice powder, mash in minute rice or flaked rice, or use the rice syrup solids. Rice Powder is going to act on the beer like malto, and probably cause a stuck mash (it is after all flour)

I use dry yeast on most of my non-specialty ales, Dry always ferments out faster for me

I use both but prefer leaf (Plugs are just compressed leaf and act the same) It is personal preference; Leaf hops create less trub, and in my system help filter where pellet sludge clogs it. Taste wise they are the same.

You can also forgo the dyacetyl rest, by using a diacetyl reducing enzyme or cold pitching (this increases fermentation time) a secondary is advisable for a lager My lagers generally spend a month fermenting and 2-3 months in the cold secondary before kegging.

Sometimes the beer ferments out to in 2-3 days, depends on the yeast and conditions

The best I have seen is a guy spending a whole day trying to get his ID-10T form signed

Where I'm at it is cheaper to just exchange the tanks for full ones. If you are close to a gas place that does exchanges that is usually the best way, I have a 20 as my main tank and keep the 5 for portable use or to cover when the 20 is empty. That way you know your tank is always current on...

I usually start the sparge at around 200 (no mash out) for a 30 min sparge with heat loss the grain bed is usually around 140 when all the water is gone... I generally get between 80-85% efficiency, for keeping mash temp I wrap the mash tun in a water softener insulation wrap that in winter...

+1 on using too much, 30 seconds of pure 02 is plenty for 5 gal batch, 45 for higher gravity.

I brew in the garage in winter, my only fear of dying is too much smell getting into the house (my wife is a mutant who thinks the smell of boiling wort is disgusting)