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Ok, So I am moving the ol' brewing indoors. I have been brewing for just over two years, I've done a couple dozen batches. I don't have the dime for a setup like electricbrewery.com (go Senators!), at least not yet. I want to start small while keeping things efficient. After a...

okay, I suspect I will NOT buy this, but: http://cgi.ebay.com/Ground-Fault-30A-GFI-Breaker-15mA-KD-LS-2123-220-240vac-/370483387893?pt=BI_Circuit_Breakers_Transformers&hash=item564287ddf5 here is a GFCI 30A 240v breaker for $30........ too good to be true???

thanks!

That is awsome!! I just finished a room in my basement for my 'brewery' - indoor electric brewing here i come! How long would it take to boil 7-8 gallons with 4500w element (I guess that's 220)???

Didn't know!! thanks!

Hey Folks, been pondering an indoor brew setup. I have been doing all-grain for three years now, and love it. I have a bango burner that works great for my boils. (I usually do a 90minute boil, and I guess-timate a cost of $4-5 dollars worth of propane per boil). I had thought of setting...

thanks folks. so where is the best place/price for a good (moderately priced) pump?

Hi Folks, I am interested in trying to build a RIMS system, on the cheap. Pumps are a fortune, but the below, on ebay, seems good. specs: listed as a 'hot water' pump 11 L /min about $50 claims to be potable water safe...

Right!! Just wanted to, ah, .... make sure you were paying attention.......

As mentioned, one of the main dangers of over-sparging are leeching tannings from the grain hulls. For most of my brewing I use the standard 2 quarts/lb of grain. However, I am realizing that I lose nothing by 'under sparging', as long as I know what my efficiency is going to be. I have tried...

However you end at your final volume, I have found that high gravity throws off the beer significantly, - especially with 'lighter beers' and O.G.s under 1.050. I always 'top up' my wort to try and get close to my intended spec. grav. It might mean tossing a bit of your hard-earned brew, but...

They are right. As well, you shouuld be using distilled water. Disolved salts, etc, reduce your boiling point.

I'm averaging $20-$30 for grain and ingredients, + ~8-10 for stuff like propane, oxygen, and occassionaly filters. Most beers work out to $28 for a 5 gal batch, thinks with a heaftier grain bill will hit $35. Oh, plus the $500 worth of supplies and the $600 4-tap keg setup.

this is a bit late coming, but you should lager and then force carb if possible. Lagering should occur at 0-4 degrees celcius, normally, and the yeast will be nearly inactive during that time. The colder the beer the longer the lager, I have read. i usually lager 4 weeks at 4 C. What was...

IF.... you scubbed down everything and cleaned it VERY well, AND you have a nice fat starter, then the yeast will take over and you should be okay. What are you planning to pitch? do you have a starter?, or are you going with dry yeast? Bringing your beer to 170, as someone else...

OK, Give us some more details. Are you making a partial-mash, all-grain, or extract brew? Are you refering to the end of your process, and you beer is now in the primary?

Metallic flavors don't necessarily come from metal, unfortunately. But - if it is metal that is the problem EDTA is very effective. It doesn't hurt to try, starting with small doses and working your way up to 40ppm. Just look for 'food grade' EDTA. I got mine on Ebay.

I am making my first hefeweizen. For most beers I would use a clearing agent. I am assuming that one should NOT use a clearing agent with wheat beers??

Thanks. I'll try this, once I strip the whole thing down and clean it viciously.

BTW shooter, love your signature.