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Thanks! Would those be 220v cords or 120?

Hi folks, i have been looking for a GFCI 30 amp (dryer) cord for several weeks now, with no luck. I hear they used to be on Ebay, but i don't see them there either. Anyone have one to sell, or know where I can get one? I am in Canada, but usually have no problem buying from the U.S...

yes, The ground from the recepticle goes to the ground in the breaker panel. The hots go to breaker, of course, and the white wire from the recepticle goes into the breaker as well, just above a coiled white wire. That coiled white wire comes out of the breaker and goes in turn to the neutral...

thats unfortunate. i'm 99% sure it is wired right

hey folks, So I'm in the process of designing a system similiar to Kal's (electricbrewery.com). Not going to be as 'shiny', but eh. i have two questions: I installed a 30 amp GFCI breaker in my panel the other day, and hooked it up to a 4-wire dryer plug. Seems all good, voltage tests...

I have heard that some pumps are rated lower because they simply ae not tested at.higher temperatures. Is this possibly the case?

Good point. I hadn't thought of it that way......

Ok. I currently use 3/8 for my chiller, 50 feet with a connector. I will look at the price difference and decide.

Thinking of eventually building a herms system. IT seems most people go for 1/2 inch copper tubing, that I have seen. Is there a benefit to this? 3/8 is a fair bit cheaper, and wouldn't it have more surface area to dissapate heat?

Hi Folks, I know some people use Little Giant pumps, but has anyone used the MPFV12? It's a 12v 360GPH pump with stainless stell head. I can't seem to find the specs online, but is it safe to assume that any pump with a stainless steel head is okay??????

The electric kettle control is interestng, looks like a pwm w/relay and switch. Make sure you are using either a gfi breaker in your panel or a cord with built in gfi!

Thanks Walker. It seems that the 10-30 is the standard for brewing, correct?

right. I was confused because I had heard reference to 4 pin and 3 pin dryer cords, and I thought there might need to be a neutral (although now that I think about how 240 works, I realize my mistake). Whats a GFI? KIDDING!!! My is ordered and on the way. I love beer, but I don't want to die...

Help me out here. I am very familiar with household 120v wiring, but have not worked with 240v much. On several pages, I see that people have three wires coming to the kettle, two hot, and one grounded to the kettle. However, how does this relate to the Panel? With a three prong...

Decided to get a real cutler-hammer 240V 30A GFCI breaker. Saving money isn't worth dying for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So, are you using the contactor as a switch? Is the contactor connected to your PWM? I am thinking of using two SSR's and a standard double pole switch.

You're absolutely right - only trick is I don't think I have room in my pot to put two heating elements and stil use my wort chiller. I know I could get a plate chiller or a counterflow chiller, but I like the convience of my 'drop in' wort chiller......

I get it. 120v to run the contactor. Could a two pole contactor could handle both lines of a 240V heater???? Why would this be different than a physical switch?

NOOB question, it says taht's a 120v contactor, is that okay?

Thanks. I know I will likely get a PID for my HLT eventually. I have read that I only need one SSR/heatsink for a PID, do I need more than one SSR/heatsink for a PWM?