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Thanks for the tip, I decided to leave it in place for my latest brew and pay attention to how much junk it caught during BK to Fermenter transfer. It actually caught quite a bit, so I think I'm going to leave it in place for now, but it is great to know that the elements won't melt the bags.

FYI, finally ran out of Starsan. My latest brew I did PBW to clean before I started the brewday, then rinsed. Used saniclean after to sanitize. I like the saniclean a lot better than the starsan. One thing that is really nice about the Attobrew is how easy it is to clean. After I transfer...

Search attobrew on this forum and you'll see how I did my semi automated electric HERMS. It only requires two vessels, 1 pump, 1 PID. Very cheap build, very efficient brewdays, I love the electric brewing now. The best part is how easy it is to clean. Personally I wouldn't worry about going...

Why not combine your HTL and your BK. One less kettle, a lot less fittings, less cleaning too. This is how my system works. The biggest benefit is that you can then chill your wort down via the HERMS by simply tossing some ice water into your MLT and turning on the pump. No more secondary...

I have a somewhat similar electric setup. MT is lower, and coil does double duty maintaining mash temp and cooling wort. Difference is that I do it in 2 kettles instead of three and of course mine is electric. I can easily do 6 gallon batches with my element and temp control is really easy...

I use nylon bags. They do not melt. The melting point of nylon is between 373 and 663 F. In my setup I have a stainless screen that stops the bags from coming in contact with the heating element and I actually had someone comment that it isn't necessary. The bags can come in direct contact...

In case anyone cares, I just use multiple bags and do a double loop over my kettle handle. I have one bag for each addition. They are just kind of on a leash circulating around in the boil. I have had as many as 6 in the boil and they don't get tangled or anything. Here is what it looks like...

Here is what my copper herms coil looks like... Compression fittings going to weldless bulkheads. One thing I'd add is that if you are going to hard mount/plumb it, having gravity on your side is nice. As you can see mine self drains. Makes it a lot easier to clean up. To get the...

Have you considered having a downdraft setup that isn't on top of the kettle? With the correct suction, you don't need to have it overheard. I had a stove like this and it worked awesome. You'd watch the vapors or smoke rise up about 6-8" and then arch over to the suction current and go away...

You are absolutely right, not really a ditches. But the three systems I mentioned are the three that inspired me to put together my rig. Thanks!

For the SS vs Cu discussion, try searching the forums and Google, you'll find what you are after. Personally with my brewery, I haven't had any issues.

Just a few more pictures from my latest brewday; This is what the boil kettle looks like when I'm getting my mash water ready, and what it looks like when I'm mashing. The only difference is the volume of water in this kettle. This picture is during mashing, so it is just acting as the HERMS...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/brewkart-ditches-countertop-brutus-205427/ You guys are correct, I run a no sparge. I agree, efficiency can take a slight hit when running no sparge, but I have no problem making doppels, imperials, you name it. My latest brew was a 1.083 Doppelbock. I used...

I run my HERMS with two kettles. I still don't really understand why everyone uses three kettles. There are a few other people doing what I do too, and it works great. Also, with my setup I only have one pump and no changing of lines, it is all hard plumbed. What ist he big benefit of the...

Added a couple more pictures to my original post at the beginning of the thread. One shows the boil kettle with nothing in it. You can see that I kept things on the cheap by protecting the element with a stainless strainer. It works! Also, the other picture shows the back of the boil kettle...

110. I just plug it into a GFCI and go.

The pump is connected to a T, the two lines from the T go to weldless bulkheads with valves in the boil kettle. The one on the bottom is obviously connected to the copper coil and recircs back to the mash tun. The other one goes to the one on top that you asked about. So depending upon what...

I plan on using saniclean once I use up my starsan.

I do both steps because starsan tends to foam when run through a pump and agitated. I do the quick rinse to just make sure I get rid of the suds.

Canon 10D