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I was thinking 1oz American oak Medium toast in a bag in a corny, that i can pull out when i get home. This trip is a big deal for me (4 years in the making) so I'm willing to risk having to age some of the taste out. Considering the fact that I can't taste it while Im gone, I just want to...

I have an AHS Stormcastle Brown Ale kit, and I have a 2-3 month work trip coming up. I was wondering if this would be 1. a good beer to add a little oak too, and 2. if i could let it sit on the cubes for the 2-3 months I'll be gone? I do have enough time to go ahead and ferment it out and...

I have 3 layers of reflectix on my BK/HLT. Works great except when i go to use my IC. Takes forever to chill. That foam rubber stuff might be the trick,if i was careful i could probably cut it to be removable, so once the boils done i could chill faster.

This is why I'm thinking of just going with straight JB weld and no Stik/putty.

I used JB weld and magic putty, The magic putty did not hold up, but the JB weld did. I just built another one once I actually got a hold of some JB stik, but havn't tested it. I'm thinking maybe roughing up the inside of the coupler or putting some notches or channels inside to give the JB weld...

I don't use distilled, but RO and it seems to last forever. I also test it maybe every other time i use it with strips and no issues, no cloudiness either. I also buy the biggest jug of starsan i can get and its a lot cheaper that way.

I use a carboy cap and tube for a blow off, then the MoreBeer sterile siphon starter to transfer. Both of these havn't failed me yet. They do suck in the airlock juice if you use an airlock. I recently dropped a carboy in the freezer to crash cool, and quickly rememberd a few hours later when...

anyone tried using a tee, compression fitting and racking cane to do pressurized transfers with these? pressure in the side of the tee through a nipple hooked up to an air filter, or CO2?

I have a 1500w and a 2000w element in my kettle. Boils with no problem. Havn't tried using my herms coil to do a stem mash yet, but just raising the mash a few degrees seems easy enough. the only problem with two elements is the space they take up. Mine are vertically staggered, one is about 2...

OK of I use a DPST switch in this small "side car," is one rated for 30a 250v good enough, or do I need something rated higher. Like when using SSR's?

Seeing this in another post (30a inline GFI) I had an idea to add a 220v element to my current setup Basically take that cable and add a small project box with two SSR's and an appropriately rated DPST switch, out to a twist-lock disconnect and a 5000W potted element. Then make a removable...

Flickr page updated with pic of full setup in a test configuration (read: not a permanent stand, and hose mess.) Once I un-rats nest the control box I'll post a pic, which should be in the next week.

I have 1" NPS half couplers welded into my keg. It just takes some tightening, but the orings seal down. You might need to remove and reinstall the element a few times, but mine now seal well.

The class six out here (cannon) will take them w/o reciept, you just get an AAFES gift card instead of cash, that you can then use on another keg.

I'll have to hold off on an inside shot until after the holidays. I used double sided tape to stick everything into the box, and the heat from the first test session, and sitting in the garage for a few months undid all the tape. I will probably cut some slots in the sides of the toolbox for the...

Yes they are the illuminated switches form automation direct available HERE. I have yet to actually wire up the illuminated part of the switches yet, however i was thinking of wiring up the element switches to only light when the SSR's are on, and then using the pump switches as temperature...

well just to get it up towards boiling temperature

After a year or so of scheming and one perfectly good sanke ruined by a bad welder, I finally have my 2 circuit 120v keggle up and running. It has 1 1500w and 1 2000w element currently, however I may just be going with 2x 2000w elements, as i need to rebuild them anyways. It took about 20...

Because of where it would sit vertically in the kettle? (its a keg, that will also be used as the HLT)

I'm trying to decide what to do about a Herms coil, and the MoreBeer one looks like a good idea for a compact efficient HEX, But would it also work for an IC for mostly 5, but an occasional 10gal batch? It would be nice to kill two birds with one stone. Link to HEX on MoreBeer