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One sold. Still have one left. $60 if anyone else is interested. Willing to negotiate

Just posted 2 perlick 425ss with original removable tips for sale

I have 2 perlick 425ss faucets with original removable tips. Both are used but in very good condition. Looking for $60 a piece plus shipping. Will split if someone just wants one. PM if interested

I can hear how hard it is running in the water when it is turned all the way up and I can hear it pulse when I adjust the potentiometer. However when I leave it on high for more than 10 seconds it get stuck full throttle and I lose the ability to adjust.

So my system is a 5500W heating element mounted in a keg controlled by a PWM that I built according to Walkers design. Current is controlled through a 40A SSR but something strange keeps happening with it. Every time I go to heat water the PWM works great and I can adjust the heat perfectly...

So I'm not sure how to use the calculator you gave me (I am really a beginner at all of this). I know what my cap number should be but what about my diodes (I am guessing those are the resistors). These are the ones I used...

So trying to swap out parts to troubleshoot didn't work so well (I ended up ruining a terminal) so I decided to try and through one of clearwater's (I think thats right) designs together. After assembling I go to test it out and it works rather odd. The light stays on completely unless I turn...

Just checked around the house, no 12V adapters. I do have 3 computer adapters but they are all like 18-19V. I also have a 6V and a 9V, would any of these work better? If not I may need to go get a 12v?

This is my first attempt at loading a picture so hopefully it works. Also I am currently using a 5V wall wart, I thought i read somewhere that the voltage of the power supply wouldn't matter. I'll see if I can find a 12V laying around and try that

Here is the link to the thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm-show-us-how-221301/ I did notice that he made an edit and I built my pwm according to what I believe was a good diagram (one made after he recognized the problem). I have rechecked my circuit board a number of times...

After reading the forum on using a PWM to control a boil kettle i decided to attempt to make my own. I ordered the parts Walker suggested and built the board following his diagram. After testing the circuit out however I find that the PWM is not operating. After hooking it up to a flashlight...

So i bought all the components from mouser to build walker's pwm. I have it all assembled and hooked up to my ssr. The ssr I have has an led indicator light. My question is should this light be blinking at a rate that matches how far up I turn the pot. Right now once I turn the pot on the...

So I am currently having trouble with a beer foaming up and even though I have done some research I can't seem to figure out why. My situation is this. I have a converted mini-fridge kegerator that holds temp about 39-40 degrees. I have two 5' of beer lines (I think 3/16 ID) that run to...

Definitely put the ground wire low on the metal pipe. I use two heat sticks that are almost identical to what you have described which is an 8" chrome plated brass pipe with PVC extension that makes a hook at the end to hang on the kettle. The element coming in contact with the pot does not...

I was wondering how tight of a fit it was to get all 4 kegs into the freezer. I see you have ball lock kegs and I was just wondering if there was any extra space because I have pin lock kegs.

Thanks the pictures were a big help and you've given me lots of great ideas for my own build. I'll let you know if I have more questions in the future which I'm sure I will.

Just wondering if you had any pictures of the process and a list of materials used. Looking into building something similar and any extra information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Where did you get your push to connect fittings for you beer line, I'm having trouble finding ones that aren't plastic.