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You'll get much better flow out of the full port version and it's only $5 more... http://www.homebrewstuff.com/1-2-weldless-bulkhead-w-standard-valve.html

Was it you that posted a link to steamer racks in another thread? I can't seem to find that thread and want to order one.

Be careful when pumping that you don't cavitate (trying to pull liquid faster than the pump can get it). False bottoms will restrict flow a bit and you don't want air space around the element while it's on. You can tell it's cavitating if the liquid level seems to be dropping in your sight...

This doesn't make sense. Flat rate boxes (medium) are $41 to Canada. And you should only have about $20 or so in fees when you get it. I could see $60 in extra fees if it was UPS, however.

movet22: Why do you need to remove the gas-in line? Isn't the liquid level below that anyway? Also, are you serving from that same keg or racking to another (maybe pushed with CO2)? I was thinking you could just use a spare gas-line ball-lock fitting with some hose into starsan... I.e. no...

This. I can ALMOST boil over my 15g converted keg on 5 gallon batches (but because it's 15g and I know it won't boil over, I don't even really pay any attention to it anymore). Bigger is better.

Spintab: can you clarify what kind of babysitting you have to do with the sensor in air? I would think there would be an initial delay in getting your wort to match the air temp, but after that I would have thought you'd have no issues maintaining that temp... No?

I used to use a refrac for FG readings, and while I know there are conversion tables, the problem I found is that I'd get three different readings from three different samples taken at the same time... sometimes wildly different. I bought a finishing hydrometer and haven't looked back because I...

I have rested nylon bags on ULWD 1500w element with no problem. I only use a rims tube on my large propane fired pot, but for smaller electric pots I just use the main element.

Back on topic: I agree with most of the posters here that say you want that hot liquid out of the chiller as fast as possible. When you put the chiller in and you've extracted almost all the heat you can in the first few feet of the chiller, the sooner you can replace that hot liquid with cold...

Follow up: Check out this post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/immersion-chillers-395062/#post4971588 I asked that poster to tell me if his controller is connected to air or liquid probes and I don't have an answer yet, but this person is monitoring temperatures inside their fermenter and...

The graph on this post is great, and I'm going to refer another thread where the OP is having temperature control issues in his fermenter. Which probe is your control connected to... liquid or air?

I've also just ordered one (from Stainless) and will report back with my findings. I don't go through kegs as fast as some, but I also don't intend on leaving the hops in the keg until it's empty. My intention is to rack a keg after fermentation (and a cold crash) are complete, and only leave...

Take my un-qualified opinion for what it's worth, but I feel like you should only be measuring the temperature of the liquid inside the fermenter if you're directly cooling (or heating) the liquid. I think that regardless of currents in the beer mixing things around, the extreme range of...

Subscribing for the stainless madness.

I'm not an "expert", but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. I've brewed 5 or 6 all-grain batches in my basement with propane with just one small window open and a relatively small vent fan (and a CO monitor about 3 feet from the burner). My last two I also put a fan in the window...

Word of warning (maybe?). I bought a 2000W 120V version of something like the ebay link and tried to build a boil controller for my 1500W element. It worked fine for a while until the heat sink heated up so much it started to melt the circuit board and the solder... the heat sink fell out and...

This is why I'm really starting to not trust contact cleaners and I'm leaning towards more open vessels for fermentation... so I can see if it's clean, and have better access to manual cleaning.

Do you have to change the filter after each beer your filter, or do you just back-flush it or something?

I don't know if it would be possible to know where someone got all the lead they were exposed to if they were having problems... in other words, you'd never really know the source for sure. I use all stainless... take it out of the equation.