Search results

Are you putting this in an apartment? You must not be married... ;)

I guess if you are doing smaller batches that works. Since my strike water is usually around 15 gallons and the HLT is 30 I prefer to have them both filled before the brewday and have them preheated automatically so the sight glass takes all of the guess work out of it. If you are heating in...

So when you put your strike water in the sight glass doesn't fill? Are you putting your grain in before the water?

The one thing I don't like about that sparge arm is that they use the same sprayer that is used for aeration while filling your fermenter. It's fine if you want to aerate your cooled wort but you really don't want to aerate your pre-boiled wort. Keep it close to the grain bed and you should...

They are very helpful in the MT. You can fill the strike water with the correct volume without opening the lid and while sparging you can keep an eye on the level of the mash. Almost every brewer I know has a sight glass on the MT. I have mine marked at 1 gallon increments and no grain...

I love the process. I love improving the process (building things). I love the results of the process. I just like everything that has to do with making beer....

50' X 1/2" Stainless tubing for a post chiller. This will speed up my brew day considerably..

When it's 100 degrees out and I just finished with yard work I'd take a Coors Light over an Imperial Stout any day. An American Light Lager is a style of beer and it's not an easy one to make without flaws so I don't put them down, I just don't usually drink them. I personally don't like wheat...

Any food grade PVC tubing is fine. I use 3/16" X 6' with no issues.

I would go the a 5 cu ft chest freezer and build a cart for it.

If this is a boil pot I would not recommend a sight glass at all, as Barnesie said it tends to boil out and it is a pain to clean after every brew. For a HLT or MT put it as low as you can get it. They don't recommend a sight glass temp gauge combo because the temp gauge is usually half way up...

IMO it is a reasonable price especially for someone that is not a DIY type person. I'm sure the guy built it for a couple hundred less then he is asking but he did put work into it and wants some compensation. Offer him less then he is asking but don't try to get it for the cost of materials.

I use one to collect from the boil pot to pump into the fermenter. It keeps hops and trub out of the chiller and fermenter, it also allows me to use it as a hop back.

I built one also and quit using it. You have to tear it down and clean it often or it gets nasty inside. Also if it starts foaming too much you can't get all of your wort in the fermenter until the foam settles. It was more of a pain then it was worth so I went back to dropping the stone in...

You should have had him plug it in with now temp controller so it would be frozen when you picked it up. If they develop a leak in the coils they are not repairable because the coils are embedded in the walls.

If you were brewing 10 gallon batches on a Sabco system you would want top dollar also. That guy will be brewing night and day just to keep up with demand.

My LHBS gives them away for free after all of the LME is out of them.

You cannot sterilize plastic, only sanitize it which for brewing is good enough. I agree with everyone else that you need to find out what was in them before using them.

A corona mill is designed for making corn meal, a mill is designed to crack hulls not pulverize. When people use a corona mill for grain the put a spacer in it to widen the gap.

25 gallons of Pale Ale 25 gallons of Amber Ale = 27712