Search results

So a few words about the manifold we made. I bought three of these regulators intending to use just the regulator to control each burner instead of using ball valves. Or plan was to use copper tubing for our gas plumbing but after we dismantled the hose, we discovered that the output from the...

Got a bit more work done this week end. We moved the MLT burner down, eliminating the space between it and the BK to make room for the three-way valve design seen above. Here is the gas manifold we fabricated out of a piece of left over stainless tubing. More on that in a minute...

Yep, I'm using keggles so I should be good to go.

Right, those and the vertical ones underneath which enclose your RIMS tube.

There will be some sheet metal heat shields between the burners and the RIMS section. See lehr's other, single tier build for an idea of what I'm planning to do.

It would be more tubing and lower head pressures to mount it down there. My gas manifold and lines will be mounted under the shelf so it will already be in place there anyway.

I'm gonna have a 3piece valve, chugger pump, plate chiller. Just haven't put it in the diagram. Working on the RIMS part now

Here's my plan for plumbing the RIMS part of my build. I'm using the Triclover 3 way valve from BrewersHardware.com as the center of this design (I haven't drawn in the the return line from RIMS tube to MLT, but it should be obvious where it goes). The tubing from each keggle will be 1/2"...

Bumpity. Anyone?

How did you make that RIMS tube?

I have an idea for a dip tube in my MLT that goes to a tee and then out the keggle on opposite sides. One side would go towards the HLT where it would be connected via a three-way valve to the HLT and the pump-RIMS tube. The other side would go out to the BK. See the schematic below. The idea...

You should be able to turn down your flame by turning the ball valve you have coming off your manifold. Were you not able to get the flame to drop down that way? What about closing your air intake on the burner itself?

Most kegs have small holes between the skirt and the tank on the top and bottom for draining water that might accumulate in there under normal use. Those are apparently sufficient to vent the heated air from the burner (oxygen comes in from below). Some older kegs may not have those holes.

The description for this regulator on Agri-supply does not list its range, but a similar one on their website says it goes from 0-5psi. Seems like it would need to go up to 10psi to be useful. Have you used this regulator? Does it really go up to 10psi as you posted later further down in the thread?

HA! That's all my FIL's stuff and his self-built shop.

I decided to make the jump to all-grain with a gusto. I've done half a dozen extract brews over the last few years, but the beer was never all that great. So after reading as much as I could stand and lending a hand in an all-grain session or two, I decided to take the plunge. My father-in-law...

Have you guys started the hard plumbing on your rig yet? I was looking at using the 1" tri clamp ferrules because they're cheaper than the 1/2" and their internal diameter is closer to 1/2" hose (using a 1/2" hose stretched onto a 1" ferrule x 3/4" hose barb fitting.) However I can't see any...

Online Metals has perforated stainless. You can get 24" x 24" for $62

Well, as luck would have it, I came across 3 "good karma" kegs on Criagslist today. So I'm thinking about going ahead with all keggle brewing. I'd like to end up with welded tri-clamp fittings, but not sure if I want to drop that kind of dough up front. If I drill holes for weldless bulkhead...

The thing is, I'd like to do some DIY work on the rig at some point instead of buying a pre made system. I am thinking of making a three tier system based on the Brew Magic, but making the highest tier removable in the future when I get pumps and HERMS set up.