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We use Automation Direct. Whatever you do, avoid Pioneer Breaker. They have screwed up every order including the replacement parts for screwed up orders and their parts are junk

Not trying to pick a fight... this is my opinion: I actually priced out all the components including the stainless box and the more expensive PID used. Including labor the price is actually reasonable for a plug and play product. Building a unit to be generic is more challenging. The one factor...

thanks! after I posted the O2 question I thought... duh! Regulator- of course!

audger - I 100% agree. Let a switch be a switch and a breaker be a breaker. Kind of like they were intended to be. The breakers at the panel feeding the system should be GFCI.

For high heat you want to use silicone. The braided tube is good for about 150F max

The actual batch size is 20 gallons. 30 gallon hot liquor tank/ boil kettle and 40 gallon mash tun. It's a 2 vessel system so the full volume needs to be able to fit in the mash tun. No insulation on the mash tun. I'm spec'ing a tankless water heater so strike temperature 'should' be reached...

Plenty big enough.

Wat until the system is done. Full automation sans level control...

P-J: The duck you use at the end of your RIMS tube. Is that male or female? Can I substitute a goose?

Uh P-J... I was complimenting you and saying I'm lazy. Your contributions are MUCH appreciated.

Found this calculator Here is my kettle size and related element size based on this calculator: BK - 40 gallon - 2/5500 Elements (starting temp 170F) RIMS tube - 1/1500W Element Can anyone confirm this or provide me with a better selection?

Because of the amount of detail you went into. A lot of work. I guess I'm lazy, simple ladder logic diagrams are all I use. Little known fact: Ladder diagrams were invented in the mid-sixties by an electrical designer down in L.A. working for C.F. Braun Engineering. The designer's name is...

Use push buttons for the pumps - they are easier to turn off in a hurry For power and e-stop use a green momentary for, your mushroom momentary for off and a relay. The method used is a simple latching circuit. Pilot lights are a very nice to have.

Use a 3 position maintained switch with 2 NO contacts and one NC contact. Jumper one side of the contacts

Cost becomes a factor when you use as many PIDs as you would temp probes with the BCS and the BCS is a form of PLC with so many capabilities.

Hey Kevin, look for a local shop that does laser or water jet cutting. The square holes are especially difficult. The price for the cuts should be under $150. Another option would be to cut the majority of the door away and use a Front Panel Express face. Like this:

Same burner, different stand, less money Same burners, different stand :rockin:

Sensor type? Extension length?

Oh my word Claudius! Combine your equipment with kladue's and you have the ultimate brewing machine.

Boil kettles require a bit of cleaning also. The customer preferred this over CIP.