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What about just using a DS18B20 to get the temperature? There's really no secret sauce in a STC1000 that you couldnt do in sketch.

This is the stuff: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36291&catid=799 I'd guess it would about $20 to ship.

New / never been used. Mistakenly purchased 5/8" OD silicone tubing from US Plastics. This works fine for gravity but not for pumping. $70 + shipping for 100'

No. Consider that water heater elements sit in water for years on end. You need to check for leaks that could be shorting to ground.

Could you share that here?

http://www.newark.com/nte-electronics/54-015/switch-toggle-3pdt-15a-125vac/dp/32M5201 This is the one you use?

I've been looking for a 3PDT "wall" style switch to no avail. Looks like I'll pick up a toggle-style. Where did you source yours? It raised the hair on my neck!!

+1. Only change I might make is to pop for stainless. My mill is in the garage and there is a bit of surface ruse on the rollers. Shrug.

Can one even buy leaded solder any more? I know after Jan 1 all brass fittings are "lead free".

Apologies to all for the crap picture. Tried to save a bit of time. I have it wired thusly: It does reverse the rotation as long as power is removed altogether when toggling the switch. I believe you're spot on in that either a 3PDT switch is needed or an ancillary switch to cut power between...

Here's how I have it (hope this makes sense) and the full extent of the documentation that came with the motor

I have this motor and a gear reducer powering my MM2.0. Not one to leave well enough alone I wanted to wire up a Hubbell 3025 swith as a reversing switch (I have no good reason to do so, I think you could probaby grind rocks in this thing). The wiring on the motor is relatively simple -- to...

I giggled when my wife bought me some PPE for Christmas including a full face shield, a lab apron and heavy safety gloves. I'm not giggling now. I'm going to give @LordUlrich's procedure a go and report back.

I've been having an on again/off again problem with a funky off flavor in my beers. I thought it was DMS but the last batch I ensure a roiling boil and still got it. It's just a funky, "it shouldnt taste this way" taste. A neighbor refered to it as "musky/earthy". Not what I was going for in...

My bad. For some reason I thought you were running the elements balls out in the BK.

The best way would be to hard wire it if you setup is in a fixed spot. Otherwise I believe you approach would work. Make sure you run a voltage drop calculation to determine what gauge cable you need from your main panel. Also, dont forget you need four conductor.

Give it a good brushing with a small stainless welding brush and then a thin coat of rtv silicone. that or dont worry about it.

#Kal said: I have two 5500W ulwd (Camco 02962/02963) elements in my BK, each on it's own 30A GFCI breaker (about 75% of rated load). It's a bit of an investment but you dont get many fnck ups with electricity. Both elements are on continuously until it reaches a boil then I switch one off and...

Might want to give this a read: http://w3.usa.siemens.com/us/SiteCollectionDocuments/LVTB-RCIRB-0711(lo-res).pdf I'd be hesitant to run anything at 100% load.

Im just south of you in Indy. Most metal supply houses (at least here) carry it. None is inexepensive.