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you got the love or ebs-branded pids? the love ones are black, ebs-branded have an off-white trim but there are a couple different versions. if love, go here: http://16c.ebrew.supply/ if ebs-branded, go here: http://ebsp101.ebrew.supply/ or here: http://ebsp200.ebrew.supply/ links will...

i use spike kettles and have the temp probes in the same location as you do, brew in the basement where it can get cold in the winter, no insulation on mlt. i'm with augiedoggy, you shouldn't be seeing that big of a temp difference between the mlt and hlt probes during the steady-state portion...

45 brews in and knock on wood, no major issues yet. worst issue was i was doing a hop stand and maintaining the bk around 180 degree for about a half hour. started chilling and forgot to turn off the heating element, found out when the smell of burning hit my nostrils. was a pain to clean the...

well, i guess we need dave to confirm when he is seeing this 4 degree difference. i took it to mean during the steady-state 'normal' part of the mash, where a difference in flow rate shouldn't have much impact on the temp of the mash. for sure there is lag when adjusting temp, i observe the...

dave hasn't tested a reduced flow rate but a temp difference between full flow and slow flow doesn't make sense. sure, efficiency could be shot with potential channeling at high flow but the temperature should be roughly the same between the two methods. if i had to guess right now, i would...

the temperature difference between the mlt and hlt is low enough and the heat transfer surface area of the coil large enough that the flow rate almost doesn't matter. the pump simply can't move the wort fast enough through the coil such that the existing wort won't come up to temp and match the...

with the hlt coil fully submerged, you should have no problem with coil wort existing temp matching the hlt. faster flows actually work better from this standpoint, feeding warmer liquid into the mlt faster but once up to temp, a slower flow should be fine, assuming you are not brewing in a...

best i can find is about 40 miles away but better price on the 20 lb, only about $28 (compared to $50 local). even factoring in gas prices to drive there, still ahead $10 or so. it is where the in-laws live, i'm sure i'll have an excuse to head there sometime. 5 lb was not a good deal...

when discussing conductor/cable ampacity, it is important to note the type of conductor/cable, as well as the installation method. most homebrewers are working with nm-b (romex) and by rule, nm-b cables are limited to the ampacity values listed in the 60 degree C columns in the NEC ampacity...

i don't eyeball in the bk, that pre-boil volume is a function of boil length and hop/miscellaneous additions, get the volume from beersmith. i always do 10 gal batches and have the same boil off rate each time, bump the volume up a bit if i am adding a bunch of hops, either in the bk or the...

but you shouldn't be missing any wort by that time, it should be essentially clean water. if you account for grain absorption, false bottom dead space, hose loss, etc., you should have more than enough sparge water if you keep the hlt coil submerged during the mash. once you hit the pre-boil...

i only look at sparge volume to make sure i have enough water and to calculate salt additions. i like to have the hlt coil fully submerged during the mash and unless brewing a super high gravity beer, that is plenty of water for the sparge. just keep running into the bk until you hit the...

assuming romex and no weird derate factors like high ambient heat, you can run #6 on a 60 amp breaker but would be limited to 55 amp of load. even assuming #6, the cost difference is significant compared to #10, about double the cost (assuming romex)

i do the exact same thing re: racking arm/tubing/qd jumper post. not only does it purge the racking tubing and runoff trub in the arm, it is a great way to see if any hops floated up in there that will inevitably clog the posts on the keg. before i had a racking arm, i would often get a bit of...

i agonized over the venting situation, probably an unhealthy amount! the fresh air vent and hot air exhaust really need to come from the same space to function properly. vent/exhaust directly to the outdoors can be problematic, especially on a windy day. pressure differences can be such that...

you put the conical back in the box? to each their own but seems like overkill (unless you don't have a 'permanent' brew space). after a pbw cleaning, i spray with starsan, put the domed lid/gasket on (barely clamped), set the 4" gasket/cover (no clamp) and set the 90 degree blowoff...

+10 gal belgian wit 4,727

i use a ro/di system to fill my hlt and run a little extra into a bucket, especially for bigger beers. heat the hlt to mash strike temp, fill mt and recirc through the coil until mt water is at strike temp. i then mash in, add my salts directly to the mash and drop hlt temp to one degree above...

i hadn't stopped in for a while but prices jumped way up 5 lb - $15 ($3/lb) 10 lb - $25 ($2.50/lb) 15 lb - $35 ($2.33/lb) 20 lb - $50 ($2.50/lb) weird how the 15 lb is cheapest per pound...

+ 10 gal german pilsner 3,812.5