Search results

sure, why not... :p

sounds like this is going the permitted route so keep in mind that drains got to go somewhere. depends on the jurisdiction but may need to run that drain to sanitary sewer or a septic tank, even if you are just dragging a hose out there for supply. sound like you need to trench to the barn...

even a 33% mix will protect down to 8 degrees, not recommended to run that low, will likely freeze the beer on the coils. i mean, 50/50 doesn't hurt and at $30/gal for glycol, talking about $10 extra in glycol to go 50/50 in a 2 gal reservoir. i run 33% in my penguin, no issues.

carbon filter efficiency drops with increasing temp. some of the cheaper filters have issues where binding agents (glue) and other materials used to hold the carbon in place start to break down at higher temps. the membranes in ro filters can be damaged with higher temps.

it will be pretty tough to get down to $0.10 a pint with any decent amount of hopping or higher alcohol. bulk hops is a huge cost saver, it isn't uncommon for a pound package to cost half the equivalent of eight 2 oz pouches. i'm on electric which is significantly cheaper than propane. if on...

across 50 or so batches, i'm averaging about $0.61 a pint. that's just ingredients but includes little stuff like brewing salts. i make a lot of high gravity and hoppy beers so that drives the price up. what's not included is co2, that is a bit tricky as i make a decent amount of club soda so...

brewed up a janet's brown ale

cleaned the tap lines and decided to go all in, deep cleaned the keezer. hadn't done it for at least a year, that thing was nasty. it is amazing how a few drips of beer here and there while changing kegs can lead to a cesspool at the bottom.

get the racking arm, wish i had gotten it sooner, beers are way clearer. before, i would dump/cold crash and fill kegs via the racking port. some yeast/trub inevitably found its way into the valve so i ran the first few ounces of finished beer to drain and then hooked up to the keg. i could...

but that cuts both ways. i'm not going to not take vacations, drive a crappy car, not go to the movies, not go out to dinner, etc. because i have a mortgage or some other debt and want to pay it off asap. that is the whole purpose of debt, it allows you to do something you otherwise wouldn't...

wife trusts my judgement and knows i do a lot of research so is a bit more comfortable with large brewing purchases. i did run the larger purchases by her so it wasn't a huge deal. the 'buy once, cry once' philosophy works pretty well here. assuming you are not going to scale up in volume...

sorry, should have read your post closer, didn't catch the co2-specific pressure reference. yes, only partial pressure of the gas in question applies.

https://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/how-many-beer-kegs-dispensed-out-co2-tank note that the table is for dispensing of beer that is already carbonated. amount of kegs that can be dispensed will certainly go down if the same tank is also used to carb a beer.

true, pressure doesn't change the permeability of the material but certainly is a factor in the total amount of gas that does permeate.

glad to hear you got the temp issue figured out, one less thing to worry about. not sure what your gas setup was but i assume you adjusted all the equipment profiles, hose volumes, dead space volumes, etc. in beersmith, for the switch to electric?

my coil sits a bit lower in the hlt, maybe at 13-14 gal. i use an ro/di system for water so if brewing a bigger beer, i just run a bit more into a clean pail. after transferring to mt, i top off the hlt with the xtra water, just enough to cover the coil. i usually wait a few minutes into the...

although not explicitly allowed by code, the switch @sicktght311 mentions would meet the intent and you could probably convince a code official to buy off on it. there would physically be no way to run both items at the same time.

i have my hlt inlet pointed down at about a 30 degree angle from horizontal, seems to swirl around fairly well. straight down or only angle slightly could be an issue. i haven't actually measured at different spots in the kettle while reciring but the 1-2 degree temp difference i see between...

from a pure code standpoint, most (if not all) of those split systems require their own dedicated circuit, per the manufacturer's installation instructions. one of the long-standing pillars of the code is that equipment must be installed and operated in accordance with manufacturer's...

eight degrees difference? in the words of seinfeld's kramer, "that's kooky talk!" full disclosure, i do not have the actual spike system but i am using spike kettles/false bottom as well as an ebrew supply panel so it is essentially a spike system. same as augiedoggy, one degree, maybe two...