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The nuclear option would be order pairs of reducers for all lines and 15' of 3/16" though I'd be looking at $12 or so per line. I'm thus kind of loath if I can bodge something. I looked up this bev seal ultra and it quotes even lower resistance so I'd need even more of it? Primary benefit seems...

Hello HBT. Apologies if this is a repeat, but .. I guess it makes life easier for me to put it in my own thread? I get pretty rubbish pours on my keg system. I thought that flow control taps would solve everything, but it doesn't seem to have. So ... I want smack bang in the middle of the...

Work with extract given as LoD. Spec sheets come with malt deliveries and this is a pretty normal value to use. Typical base malt ranges from 305-310 LoD. This is the number of points possible with 1kg in 1L. You divide this into your volumes over your efficiency. So if your target is 19L @...

Yes. I test for dissolved oxygen and can prove pickup and oxygenation for a whole bunch of different processes. Armed with this information you can set to eliminate the major contributing factors one by one in order of magnitude weighed against ease/cost. Basically when you go to can and it...

I've got a take on hop interactions with yeast as well and generally it is that they are negative. A lot of people talk about biotransformation in hushed tones and for me unless the strain is known to express a glycosidic enzyme and in sufficient quantities and given enough time at the correct...

Everybody has their own take on it. Mine is that haze from greater than normal amounts of yeast in suspension is a flaw. Haze from anything like flour or excessive amounts of adjuncts is a flaw. Haze from hop derived polyphenols, carried across naturally from a light hand with kettle fining and...

I love kettle souring with lacto up front because it is a fast, clean and controllable way to sour. My colleague is not keen because he prefers the interesting flavours which come from true mixed cultures, barrel ageing and time. I see all that as something very separate from just souring with...

Dude a month? 2 points in a week? .020? What yeast, how much and what fermentation temperature? Lager is like .. pitch enough to ferment over the desired time frame at the desired temperature which for me is 10 days @ 14C. Cold crash, dump the yeast. Lager at 0-1C for 4-6 weeks total turn around...

Took off fine the next day. Ferment slowed significantly after 48 hours. Dry hopped with 5g/L galaxy, brought the temperature up to 23C and let it chug away another two days. Currently on chill, plan to keg tomorrow. Post boil SG 67, pH 3.47. Sample prior to chilling PG 14, pH 3.39. Approx 80%...

Never used them, never would. Name sounds cool. So many ways to skin a cat in the brewhouse depending on how microscopic your focus is. On paper they look like they are to be used when the mash tun is completely full, but you need more extract so you'll be adding sugar to the boil, but as it is...

I made my own in copper and eventually ditched it in favour of a plate chiller. If I was buying one I'd go stainless all the way. The only thing that would put me off a stainless one would be if I had to make it myself! If it is sized correctly and the cooling water is cool enough then I cannot...

Weird, I find it to be a big resinous, sharp and dank hop with a lot of sweeter fruit notes expressed at more moderate levels, but those are overwhelmed with big piney, herbal resinous flavours at higher levels. Almost a slightly less intense, but slightly more interesting range of potential...

I usually sparge at 80C and as a sparge can take upwards of an hour consider that 'pasteurised' enough for kettle souring. This works fine, you are not sterilising the wort, but you are reducing bacterial counts to an insignificant level. Pre-acidification and holding high temperature alongside...

I'm lucky enough to have access to it and if you do get hold of it and decide to use it keep it away from copper! Also if somebody gives you a little bit in a bottle be aware that it degrades over time and that bottle will pressurise, the drums of it we use are fitted with a one way valve so...

45 calculated IBU's would be the upper limit I'd set myself for this beer. I'm going to assume your simcoe and chinook averages at 15% AA and your cascade 8% AA and your boil volume is 25 litres. Warning, this is real beer mat maths. (AAU x U x 10 / V) 24 @ 40 34 @ 15 20 @ 5 78 theoretical...

Amarillo isn't a bittering hop. For the sake of stubborn pedantry all hops are duel purpose if you want, but it is great as an aroma hop, is quite expensive and it isn't even that high alpha. I have totally used aroma hops to bitter with before when home brewing, but only when they are used...

I know wiser than I recommend keeping separate equipment, retiring old equipment when buying new in order to lessen the pain of owning two sets of equipment, but I'm totally fine with my cleaning and sanitation. Clean is clean, sanitary is sanitary ... two sets of equipment doesn't change that...

Post boil was actually 1.067 though I didn't believe it at the time. I didn't take a pre boil. I'm going to have to cast doubt on either the initial gravity (61, probably correct) before souring or the read taken post boil (home brew saccharometer!). While I had scant signs of yeast fermentation...

Unfortunately I've been unable to leave it alone as I've no airlock activity and no pressure building in the fermenter whatsoever. I've opened it and have no detectable co2 so I've closed the fermenter and shook it a few times and still no co2 fizz or signs of fermentation. I'll mix up a couple...

Brew day went fine. Only did a 30 minute boil because didn't need to concentrate anything through evaporation and my only hop addition was some motetuka at whirlpool prior to collection. Didn't seem to produce any/much trub? I fined in the boil, but didn't get hot break? Quite an aggressive boil...