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I see you cooled the wort down to 70 degrees... were you able to control fermenation temps after you pitched the yeast? If so what were they? If not what was the ambient temp of the room you were fermenting in? Also what type of yeast, starter, etc? It could be a temp or yeast issue. My beers...

I use 1.1 qt of strike water per pound of grain... then fly sparge until I hit my pre-boil volume ... which is just under 7 gallons ( for 5 gallon batch). There is a reason I use this particular ratio...at the moment I only have a seven gallon kettle... I seem to get a more concentrated wort...

OP, I enjoy your enthusiasm and your head first approach, but NEIPAs are some seriously technical beers. You really need to have your process and system dialed before you're going to be successful with this style... when I say you... I mean anyone.. FYI. Every step of the brew process is...

Sent a PM... never heard back... is the tower with 3 faucets still available ???

Watching the development of the krausen is one of my favorite parts of brewing... it's one of the reasons I love carboys. It's perfectly normal for the krausen to shrink or fall... even on day 2... especially for smaller beers. The difference in krausen development across different yeast strains...

I'm interested in the 3 tap tower and the 3 faucets. PM sent.

1.020 final gravity is extremely high for a pale ale... even if it was an extract... that could indicate something went awry... possibly infection... not really sure... but it sounds odd.

Some hops give off a dank/funky smell and or taste. Dankess (could be described as funky as well) is a desirable quality in some styles and for some brewers. I've heard some people say that old hops can impart a cheese like quality into a beer... i've def had a funky cheese character in some...

I've got three 5 gallon corny kegs in my kegerator. One keg is hooked up to the tower (single faucet) and the other two are served via picnic tap... I'm in the middle of a graduate program so this will have to do until I have more resources to allocate to brewing... it gets the job done. I try...

I've found that sometimes bigger beers take longer to carbonate. I've also found that when bottle conditioning beers that were carbonated quickly (less than two weeks)... ended up being over carbonated later on... those beers that took longer to carb in the bottle (over a month) had perfect...

^ This is true^... I'd also suggest dry hopping twice... with a cold crash between them. Example: Dry hop 2 or 3 days after pitching the yeast once you've reached your terminal gravity cold crash for 24-48 hours Bring it back up to the low to mid 60's F... add more dry hops.... leave them...

I dry hop and cold crash in primary... then fill a keg with sanitizer and push it out with co2... then do a closed transfer from primary to the keg. The cold crash and careful closed transfer give me a nice finished product... the first pint of my kegs are nice and clean... no hop/yeast sludge.

It's much safer just to start from distilled or RO water then build from there utilizing Bru'N Water... there's lots of good Youtube videos on how to do the calculations. Considering the time and money you are investing to make a 5 gallon batch... I'd just bite the bullet and spend the $10 on...

Do you have Bru N' Water... there's a free version and it has target profiles in it...I've used the profile "Black Full Bodied" for stouts and it works well...I start with distilled or RO and build from there.

Are you just looking for a target profile for oatmeal stout...do you have brewing salts and software to help you make the calculations ?

No secondary... and if you have the ability to drop the yeast (cold crash, etc.) before the last round of dry hops that would really help. Otherwise like Dgallo said... don't dry hop during active fermentation. I have no good advice on bottling... I hate bottling...if kegging is an option do a...

I brew commercial quality IPA's by simply focusing on 1) Water Chemistry 2) Yeast pitch rates/yeast choice 3)Fermentation Temps 4)Oxygenation of wort 5) Closed system transfers Assuming you already have a solid recipe and fresh high quality ingredients... those 5 steps should get you there...

I agree... 70 F ambient is way to warm for my liking. Like others have mention there will swings throughout the day. You could build a swamp cooler ( I have a mop sink in my basement that I use) and that will do well to hold the temps down and deal with temp swings. A good comprise between...

I'd rather not drink that drink those light macro lagers... and I really... really... really like to drink... but I'll go without. I also brew and or buy the type of beer that I want to drink... so I'm typically never in a situation where I'm forced to drink something I don't want....