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You do bring a good point Matt. I will edit my post to avoid risk of others following it.

Both schematics are electrically equivalent. The STC-1000 and ITC-1000F are the same interface. Here is a quick how-to guide assuming you are trying to make a controller similar to the youtube one with an ITC-1000F Pieces: power cable that has a 3-pin outlet (white, black and green). 3 white...

The design itself remind me of the chrome plated faucets from my LHBS.

Here is the performance of a cold crash of a 5 gal batch. I cannot complain since I added the collar onto the cooler, I knew there would be some losses. Remember I only paid $20 for the cooler.

Well 2 days into fermenting... Looks like I am going to need a thermowell. The beer temp is reacting within 5 minutes of supplying a thermo load. I'll pick one up for my next batch.

I do not recall if I got a notification once the programming was complete with xloader. Then I plugged the arduino back into the Rpi and ran the following command from a terminal. This resets the EEPROM. It maybe worth trying this command before programming. sudo echo 'E\n' > /dev/ttyACM0

I personally have not seen any effect, but my process is not dialed in enough to see. 10 point difference is a lot. And with extract I would have to say check your hydrometer in RO water (or at least filtered for a quick check) at its calibrated temperature to confirm nothing is off there.

Use xloader in a windows machine and plug the arduino into the windows machine. Then install version 0.2.10 into the arduino. This is the last compatible version for the arduino.

Dybz read this. https://community.brewpi.com/t/solved-cant-seem-to-program-arduino-uno/1319/6

I like to rehydrate the Irish Moss in a ounce of water. Stirring it occasionally throughout the brew day until I pitch it in. I have seen an increased amount of proteins coagulate. This picture was taken when I pitched the yeast after cooling. So much has settled so quickly.

Just upgraded to a Brewpi setup thanks to Fuzze's Thread this week. Running an inullgeral brew, a cream ale, one of my house recipes. I used an original moto droid I had in a drawer to be my "LCD Display". So my Fermentation Chamber just doubled in cost to $218 ($106 for the Brewpi parts)...

I would test one every couple days at first the every day as it gets close to the carb level you want. Then Chill those babies down to put the yeast in a dormant state.

40 gallons All 5 gal batches Orange hefeweizen Hefeweizen Blood orange hefeweizen Mocha Stout Hazy brown ale Pumpkin Ale Hefeweizen Cream ale ... I like hefeweizens. 26267 + 40 = 26307

I use a piece of silicone tubing. I only teachers a worm clamp on one side and just pull off the other. Note: this picture is old, I have a high temp tube in there now.

Total cost $112. Thanks to a risky deal on Craig's List where I could not test the cooler, but after a 45 minute drive one way the guy gave it to me for $20. The rest of the cost was hardware, temp controller, and heat source.

The chamber is fully functional now. Still have a little cable routing to complete. I really like the cohesiveness between the keezer and chamber.

Exactly. I wanted to keep this thing small and cheap. My goal was $100. But I splurged for the LED light. This thing is 33 inches tall and 19.5 inches wide. You can tuck this thing away rather easy. For me it will be in the basement next to my keezer.

Duplicate thread. Deleted.

I have been brewing for 2.5 years now. First year was extract, then moved into all grain. And a couple months ago i made a keezer. I have been building a recipe list lately, and would like to have better consistency so a fermentation chamber was my best option in my novice opinion. I also enjoy...

2 ball lock keg system. Perlicks and all stainless components. Went with the dual gauge regulator since I love hefeweizens and wanted to have different carb profiles for each beer. Went with a tile collar since I had extra tile from a kitchen backsplash diy.