Search results

I did this recipe before. You will not add an infection into the wort because you are boiling it for 5-10 minutes. The first time I did it, I left the sour guinness for 4 days and I found it was too much. Thats just personnal. Ive tweeked it a bit to make it better. By the way, it is now my...

Guys go get information on "heat stick" on the web. I made myself one which is a double so 2X1500. I use it with my propane burner. It gets 6 gallons to boil in about 15 minutes. It would be a great idea to add it if you are not sure what to add. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Well if you dont shake the whole thinkg you wont get sediments in a beer. Look up on this forum for threads about using a secondary. Some beers will need conditioning while others are very simple and dont need it. But this is up to you! Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I also agree in a way with you. You have to try to know. I find it safer to start with something simple and get to know a particular kind of hop before going all in with a big mix. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Well you can do 4 at a time since you dont need a secondary for every batch Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

In general, yes.

Subscribed. Give us info as it comes up! Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I've had the same question in the past to be able to try one recipe multiple time and find the best ratio of everything. I found myself buying 1 and 2 gal jugs just in case.

It looks like a 5gal recipe. Also I find weird to use marris otter with this. The biscuity / nutty flavor doesn't go very well with the peach. But that's just a personnal opinion. I would use a simple pale malt as base with Vienna malt.

+1 on the other posts. The primary fermentation was okay. This second small one won't affect, or you won't notice the difference.

Let's say your last hop addition into the boil is 1oz simcoe at 2 min. This is the aroma you will be looking for. It would be weird to add a completely different hop to dry hop. You are basically changing the aroma in secondary instead of pushing it higher. Some recipes call to dry hop a...

I see a lot of brewers using only a primary without the need to transfer to secondary. These are used mostly for conditioning high gravity beers. Also it will be exposed to oxygen for a bit it must be transfered slowly to a glass carboy. Glass is less permeable to oxygen and it is difficult to...

You can try closing you primary onto your dry hopping bag. Much easier to take out after and also if you are worried they sink in the trub. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Did you put the yeast in yet? You can still add more sugar into the wort to raise the ABV. The problem is how you will mix it since you dont want to oxydize! Corn sugar would be the best solution i think. Try moving with a spoon or paddle very very slowly. Or you can think of it as a very...

I would still forget about the hop addition @ 30 min. Maybe adding 0.5oz more at the 60 min. Rest looks great! Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

If there is fruitflies in there, it should mean there is also eggs ready to hatch. Mmmmm tasty! Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Your right i was looking it up. Around 70C and water is 100C. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I am pretty sure you could reboil it after fermentation, then add some more yeast before bottling. Dont forget you will lose volume with the sediments at the bottom! Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I find people are going crazy over a cooling system and the need to chill in 5 minutes if possible! A cold water bath with a couple of ice packs will do. Its going to cool in 1-2 hours, yes but if its in a closed area, ive never had an infection that way. Best of luck

I would boil at the last minute. I mean, buy some yeast first then when you have it in hands, boil, cool and pitch to avoid once more an infection.