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I think he is assuming the situation where you are not applying a signal to the SSRs. In that case yes, in theory if neither has signal your 2 120V lines would be disconnected. This is a different case than the above. I see several two cases for the SSR model... 1) 1 SSR Fails Open -...

I can't see a reason it wouldn't work. It would add some loss to heat. I could also see a problem if they cycling rate was VERY high and there was a difference in the response time of the SSRs... (I can't explain the whole scenario if anyone is interested)... but beyond that it should really...

That's a great idea. Where did you get the stock?... I used flimsy roof flashing... it works, but not well.

+1... personally I would put a contactor/mechanical relay with a power switch inline with the SSR. That way if the switch is off the contactor is de-energized and the line is disconnected. If you just use the SSR then in theory there will be leakage current and if the SSR were to fail it...

I don't really think either has a particular advantage. It is just personal preference. I would say the one thing you really should have is a way... however you prefer... to ensure that you don't dry fire the element. Alarm is set in the PID. Most of the time you "unset" the alarm by...

Sounds like a floating neutral... what does neutral to ground read?

So it sounds like either defective GFCI or the wiring is messed up. What do they read relative to ground? (Sounds like Neutral isn't connected).

I have a set also... the problem I ran into is that the handles spin and are hard to get the "angle" in the right orientation. I just gave up on them and they are sitting in a box. For now I have the short handles on mine... eventually I'd like to use the extenders or the flow controls and get...

Another option would be Beer Keg Faucet Flow Control Adaptor ... also gives you the added benefit of adding flow control. Edit: I found the other thing... http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2084

The other downside I see is that at some point you would need to run a bunch of wires or some sort of control system (muxed or whatever) from the 24V control panel to a sub-panel or control box with all of the 120V and 240V stuff in it. It adds a lot of complexity to the system. I'd be curious...

+1...

And electrically speaking both wires carry the same load. The voltage setup is slightly different with reference to ground. But in terms of current both wires carry the same current just in opposing directions.

Actually depends on the pid output. Output styles include relays, pwm for a ssr, voltage, and current. They do this so you can use them for many applications. The major use around here is to drive a relay or ssr, thus the pwm output is used.

Really nice work.

My jaw just hit the floor.

I agree... 3 120V Breakers seems like it would be more annoying and more expensive. You would also be using much more current to get the same wattage. I'd go with 240V

Pretty cool.. I was thinking about doing something like that. My plan was to have it be modular, so I could use it to control my smoker, brewing, sous vide, and anything else I come up with.

Can you post a pic of the regulator? If you are getting a new one pm me before you chuck the old one.

Depends on what you want it to do. 3 Conductor - 2 Hot, Ground 4 Conductor - 2 Hot, 1 Neutral, Ground. The three conductor is fine if you ONLY want 240V. If you want 120v also available in your control panel then run 4 conductor. For example if you want to also run a pump at 120V.

Might want to invest in a check valve also.