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Thanks for the info. I don't entirely understand how cold-crashing works. You can't seem to guarantee that there will be no activity once it is crashed as the yeast won't crash 100%, unless I am missing something?

No. I don't think it is bad to press the test button. I am not debating that it works. I am stating that from the point of view of safety an emergency stop should not rely on items outside of the control panel to work. This is coming from the perspective of someone who has actually worked on...

+1. I wasn't really suggesting using the 1/8" Barbs.. just noting they had them. I actually have some 1/8" line I use for resistance on soda lines. But I would take either the same ID barb as the line or a little bigger, otherwise you are asking for leaks.

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=376_1_3_7&products_id=11&zenid=70af9e3d76da89e9e10c1a02fa403bf4 and http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=375_19_220_286&products_id=501&zenid=70af9e3d76da89e9e10c1a02fa403bf4

Pretty cool. A local brew buddy turned me on to the idea of BIAB. This seems like it would be awesome. I will also through out there that I think shorting to ground for an E-Stop is a bad idea. It works in theory... but isn't really the way to do it. Basically you should have a...

You can also use MFLs instead. You can get swivel nuts all the way down to 1/8" and then use MFL disconnects. That's the way mine is setup.

Thanks for the advice. Schutt's orchard.

Hey, Just found some great line to use for soda and higher pressure needs. It is McMaster #5238K618. It is 1/8" Braided... it adds a lot of resistance and can handle a lot of pressure. I used it with 3/16" barbs and it is working perfectly. I get a great pour using a 5' from my carbonator...

Hey All, Since I moved to upstate NY (a.k.a. apple country) I decided I wanted to do a cider this fall. I have talked to a local orchard and will be getting 6 gallons of unfiltered, but UV processed cider. My plan is to take 5 gallons of the cider and use brown sugar to get up to 1.060 if...

There are two types of CO2 cylinders... siphon and non-siphon. All CO2 tanks store liquid. The siphon style draw the liquid off of the bottom instead of the gas off the top. You want this style if you want to fill another tank. If you are using the gas through a regulator you want non-siphon...

+1... SSRs were not designed to be run in parallel like that.

Should be fine then.

Will it work?... it "should". But I'm not sure how kosher it is to run the grounding pin separately.

As long as two conditions are met the keg should hold pressure... 1) Equilibrium has been reached... e.g. the batch is fully carbed. 2) There isn't a leak.

Series... no. It doesn't work like that. Basically the way it works is that the SSR can only have 25A running through it... if you put things in series along a single wire the current HAS to be the same. So if you put two in series they would both have 25A running through them and you would...

+1. Checkout Kal's Electric Brewery.

Tagging for Kal's response, but the way I see it both accomplish the same thing, except the SSRs would be more expensive and generate more heat. And there is the safety aspect, if I recall SSRs never completely shut off, thus the element have potential to be charged at points you wouldn't expect...

Yep. That's the short version. :rockin:

+1. If you want to do electric, you basically use the output of the PID to control a SSR that is able to switch the load of the heating element. If you tried to put 30A through the PID it wouldn't be happy (some PIDs have SSRs built in... but in general it is separate). If you want to do...

I was just thinking about locking it shut so I don't have to worry about it. The other option is to buy a stainless nut + bolt and a washer and just replace the whole setup. I have a few of the lids that used to have the non-pull type. I drilled them out and replaced them with the pull type...