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The transformer steps down 120Vac to 24Vac for the honeywell valves. Otherwise, I think it would be called a rectifier. You should be able to run the neutrals for your valves to the neutral barrier strip that your 120 is using. There shouldn't be any voltage on that strip anyway. Edit: My...

I like it. They could be an incentive for people to return your bottles when you carry a six pack over to a friend's place. Also, cool conversation piece and probably won't turn over when they're on the floor of your car.

I ordered to parts over the course of a six month deployment and have been putting it together since mid-December. Take into account that I've had to go back to work and now have a 6 week old infant. All I have left is this control box and a test run and I'll be ready to brew.

Definitely. I plan on having everything in one bundle coming up to the lid and then branching off. Careful use of zip ties and properly cut wire lengths should do the trick....in theory.

The control box has been underway for a little while now...actually, a couple of them. I've made more than one with different wood and this is the first one that I like. Go figure it would be made out of the most costly wood. The box is made from a nice piece of solid poplar. I chose it...

Same question for what pressures you're going to run. That yellow flex line at Home Depot or Lowe's is usually rated for appliances up to 11"WC. If you're running your burners on low pressure, it should be fine.

Something else to think about would be the heat loss. That much stainless in the bottom of your tun would absorb a lot of heat initially. Easily remedied by pre-heating I guess or raising the temp of your strike water. I'm working on a direct fired system and am wondering if this would make...

I got the wedless fitting with the ball valves in kit form from BargainFittings.com and my weldless sightglasses with thermometers I got from BrewHardware.com . They're prices are great, the shipping was quick and saved me the hassle of having to piece them together. Normally, I'll do...

I find it easier if I start with what particular type and style of beer I want to make. You can start with what is required to meet that style's standard and change from there. At that point, you're starting with something completely generic (other than the person who may be credited with...

BRING IT!! Free stuff is Awesome!

Sweet, that's what I did. I have a terminal block for hot, neutral, ground and for 24V. Actually, I was given all of these electrical components by a friend so my ground and 24V are on the same block since it has about twenty terminals on it.

I've been looking through these control boxes and haven't seen where everyone is wiring their ground. I have an extra terminating block and can have that as the common ground for everything. Is this right or do I only need to ground the main power coming in? That doesn't seem right as my...

Cool. When I fired up the pilots with propane, I think I could have cut through steel with the flame. I opened up the screws and turned them waaaay down and got something that didn't seem like a killer blow torch.

I had to buy the part that screws onto the tank which is pictured in your picture on post #9 (the green part) then a low pressure regulator since I'm using Honeywell valves. From the regulator I bought a propane specific extension hose that had the 3/8's MIP on one end and 3/8's FIP on the...

Anyone have a picture of the correct look of the Q314 pilot flame? The instructions only seem to show what it shouldn't look like.

Is the piece you took out of the regulator a flare fitting or standard pipe thread? Either way, you'd need a 1/2" MIP reduced to whatever size your fitting is coming out of your gas valve. I think that's what you're asking?? As far as your other* fitting goes, if you're going to use that...

I painted the inside of the upper level with black high temp paint. I know this won't do much to keep the wood from charring but I've been on other threads for guys who built wood single tiers like this and they said they haven't had issues with it. Either way, I sandwiched some aluminum...

I'm excited that I actually get to post to this thread...holy cow it's long now! Here it is, there's a link to my build thread in my signature:

The yellow flex hose that you can get for appliances at Lowe's or Home Depot comes with 3/8" Flare to 1/2"MIP fittings on each end. It's also rated for less than 2psi. I used the one with the built in safety valve coming out of the Honeywell valves and used a 3/8" Flare to 1/4 FIP to connect...

I used a 3/8 flare to 1/4 FIP to go from the hose to the burner orifice.