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I was able to get my hands on some aluminum lids yesterday at a really sweet restaurant supply store. When I got them home I mounted a stainless T fitting on one with a quick disconnect on one side, a hose barb on the other going to a fly sparger and the down side going through the lid with a...

Mounted the control box tonight. I wanted it to be able to fold out of the way so I put it on hinges and oriented the control box so that it would take up no more than the actual footprint of the brewstand. The Temperature probes: Control box lit up: With the control...

To comment again on an old thread bu to the OPt...how did it turn out?

I finally got the electrical issue figured out thanks to the guys who chimed in the this thread I started. It was a terribly simple fix that I just couldn't see for some reason. Here is the final result of the fix: The PID's and Switches: All that's left is to mount the control...

IT LIVES!!! Thanks for the help guys. Here's what it looks like now: and the PID's and switches:

That set up from the instructions is how I have the PID wired. I have one leg of the transformer going to pin 13 and then out of pin 14 I have a lead going to the auto side of my switch.

P-J...I just did exactly what you pictured but instead of all of those leads going to my switches, the second lead goes to the TH post on the valve. Now, when the PID kicks on or when I move the switch to manual, full 24V goes to the valve and it kicks on. So, essentially, all I had to do was...

The neutral to the valves? I thought about this and asked the question in some other threads about the TH and TR post on the honeywell vr8200 valves. I could run one leg to the valve and just have the other go where I currently have it. When the PID switches it will complete the circuit and...

Thanks P-J. If I break the strip where you have it in the pic as my wiring is now, the two black lines go to pin 13 on the PID and the two red go to the manual side of my switch. Wouldn't I have to jumper that over to the AUTO side of the switch somehow to complete the circuit?

Yep they are...Thanks! I'll give it a shot today.

For instance, I could send the 8V leg straight out to the valve and have the 16V leg go to the PID for switching? If I were to get this transformer, would the two wires coming out of the secondary side be wired similarly...one to the valve, the other to the PID?

It looks like this transformer probably won't work for me then. There is no positive/negative post on the Auber controller as per page 5 of this instruction manual. The way it reads to me is that you have one 24V source coming into the controller on pin 13 and when the temperature reaches it's...

I'm just short of pulling out what little hair I have over this. I've been searching on the internet and on this site for any clue as to why I can't get this stinking thing to work. I have a door chime transformer that has three voltage options (8v10A, 16v10A and 24v20A) like this. When you...

So, I had three bad transformers from two different places...how does this happen? Anyway, I finally have one that's registering at least 24V when I touch the multi-meter to 8V post and the 16V post together (I'm using a tri-volt door chime transformer like this). However, when I connect a wire...

Alright, it turns out...I'm not crazy. I bought the Radio Shack transformer and it burned up and I can't figure out why so, I bought another transformer from Ace Hardware. It was the same door chime transformer as the others and I was skeptical. I got home, hooked it up and it hummed away AND...

I don't know how but I think I smoke checked transformer #2. I went out and replaced the door chime transformer from Lowe's with a 25.2V 2A transformer from Radio Shack and hooked it up. There are two black leads on one side for 120V with 2 yellow and one black on the other for the lower...

How are you attaching your multimeter to get the reading off of the secondary? For instance, I have to attach my multimeter to the hot side of 120 and either the neutral or ground to get the reading but right now I have an 8V/16V/24V doorbell transformer. To get the 24VAC out of it you have to...

So I returned the transformer and got a new one...still no voltage on the out side. What am I doing wrong here? When I hooked up the new one, it got hot but not too hot and I still had no voltage.

I have a similar question and posted pics of my wiring in the thread in my signature. I'm getting .2Vac on the 24V side of my transformer according to my multi-meter. Also, I wired my 24V hot from the DC connector to the the TR on the valve. The TH on the valve I attached my red wire which is...

I've been spending this week wiring up the control box and now I've hit a wall. I've got 120Vac going everywhere it needs to go, even up to the transformer. The transformer is a standard doorbell chime transformer from Lowe's with posts for 8V 10A, 16V 10A and combining the two making it 24V...