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I would avoid long souring something like this. You're going to lose a lot of your hop flavors and aromas from the boil in that period of time and basically have to rely on dry hopping to make them back up. I think the way to go would be to sour before boiling. Then I would avoid any additions...

So to update...I bottled this guy on Monday after 2 weeks in the fermenter. In addition to the hops that I listed originally for dry hopping, I added another ounce each of Columbus, Mosaic and Calypso after the first round had been in for 4 days. 3 days later I bottled. As I want to see how...

I have some fresh bottled Bodhi, and will be picking up some fresh Roller Blabe this weekend (canning tomorrow). A handful of other Hoof Hearted beers are available in Crowlers around town, too. I can also get any other Ohio Distro. Looking for some East Coast style IPAs or some good sour...

+1 Measly Gallon of Maris Otter/Wakatu SMaSH Pale Ale 15154

So I ended up brewing this on Monday and ended up going with the following grain bill: 8 lb. 2-Row 2 lb. Flaked Oats 2 lb. Vienna 12 oz. White Wheat Hop schedule I kept the same as above. I used store bought RO water and treated with a total of: 5 g CaCl 8.9 g Gypsum I was...

+5.5 gallons of Northeast Style IPA Total - 14652.5 gallons

+ 5 Northern Brewer Bastard Stepson Root Beer 14488.25

I'm planning to brew an East Coast Syle IPA next week and was hoping to get some pointers before I fully commit (i.e. mash in). Take a gander at the recipe below - my goal is a handsomely cloudy (NOT murky) IPA that has that fruit explosion that you get from the East Coast type IPA. My main...

No, the other wire nut is just hiding in the picture! :mug:

I'll take it apart and rewire it when I get home from work. Maybe there's a bad connection somewhere in there...

Yep...that's exactly how it is wired.

I know - I just have the arrow showing that the pins are going from 1 on the right to 8 on the left rather than the other way around like in your diagram.

I think they're making a connection...#8 is on the bottom plug on the hot side, while #2 is on the top of the neutral side with the main white wire on the bottom of the neutral side connecting these to via the bridge. There is no power to the outlet during heating OR cooling.

The unit powers on and the temperature probe works properly. There is the circle that indicates heating or cooling, but it is solid and I hear the relay switching when it comes on.

Also, I did break the bridge on the hot side (left side in the image above).

Let me know if you can make sense of it - it looks like a bit of a cluster. The controller is upside down in the image, so pin 1 is on the right and 8 is on the right. Also, the neutral and ground are not in the same nut, even though it looks like they are in the picture.

So I bought an ITC-1000F temp controller and got it all wired up last night following the instructions here: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pimp-my-system/build-temperature-controller/ I've checked and double checked and triple checked my wiring to make sure that I am following...

For fruit I wouldn't 100% eliminate head space anyway as refermentation could cause some blow off. After that subsides, a decent CO2 blanket should be in place, but what I usually do is take my sodastream and give er' a squirt.

Their Facebook is typically pretty responsive. I'm a fan of them, but I may be a little biased since I've won a 10 gallon kettle and $100 gift card through their Facebook giveaways :D

Welcome fellow Ohioan! :rockin: