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Even domed conicals can only hold ~5psi. If you're intent on using a single corny for both fermenting and serving I'd try trimming your dip tube so that you don't suck up so much sediment.

I wouldn't expect the o-rings to fail, people around here have had good experiences. In general you'll see welded fittings favored over weldless because they're sturdier and easier to clean.

That Williams pot is weldless. Polarware carries a 10-gallon welded pot and many homebrew shops sell it. And I agree about B3's 8 gallon pot being poorly-sized. I usually start with 7.75 gallons!

If the o-ring was leaky then I would assume that the entire pour would be foamy. Also, with the beer in the diptube and line being under pressure rather than a vacuum I don't see how a bad o-ring would allow in air.

Did you google for "california paranoia"?

What kind of draft setup do you have? If your faucets & beer line are warmer than the fridge then CO2 will come out of solution in that beer and appear as extra foam for the first second of the pour. I get this effect with my tower.

With $200 in hand and wanting to keg I wouldn't waste your money on a tap-a-draft setup. Exercise some patience for a month or two and save up to get a used mini-fridge or chest freezer. Kegging tends to be a something of a money pit but it's well worth it.

Great price on what appear to be a good pot. "Encapsulated bottom" seems to infer that it does have a layered base. Free shipping, too! Are you planning on adding a valve?

William's keg lube. To clarify, my damaged o-ring was not lubed.

Earlier this week I discovered that my new 20# bottle of CO2 had completely leaked out. After swapping it out the culprit was easy to find, a damaged post o-ring. It was fine when I put it in (it's a colored replacement as you can see), but must have been damaged when the gas QD was rotated...

Cool, I didn't know about these! I just assumed that ranges used big-ass rheostats.

Odd, I've had the same Escali model for like 3+ years and it's worked great. It's even on the original set of batteries!

Found the PWM setup: http://home.chattanooga.net/~cdp/boilnew/boilnew.htm Definitely would be a lot more complicated than a kitchen range knob but also much more efficient. In order to get 70% efficiency with a voltage divider you have to throw away 30% of your power.

An electric kitchen range uses a rheostat to control the voltage across the heating element. The problem here is that you'll have to find a very high power model to handle a 4000W+ element.

To get the "dial" control you can create an adjustable PWM circuit which will trigger an SSR. I'm unable to find the site but a guy has a good writeup on his setup which does just that.

This is a great idea!

Re-inventing the wheel is fun!!

15 amp capacity, not bad. I'd like to see if its temp probe could be extended.

My Polareware kettle has a similar configuration and there's no issue with keeping the groove on the inside clean. Simply doesn't collect any gunk.

Good question! That's my buddy's house, I'm going there tomorrow to brew a double batch. I was confirming where he lived by using street view, and lo and behold!