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I'll take one

hey helibrewer, do you have any pics of your bottom drain cooler? Sounds interesting.

Question for those of you who have purchased the stainless elements. For those of you who have boiled wort have you had any (possible scorching) issues with the element being low watt density as opposed to ultra low watt density.

I'll take one.

Does head space matter if you are recirculating with a Herms or Rims? I've obtained a 25 gallon stainless mash tun for a good price but will most likely only do 10 gallon batches to start with. That's a lot of head space but should I be concerned if recirculating?

I could use any one of these "Big Time".

I'll take one please!

I've seen the video that Bobby M has out on soldering his element tri-clamps but have never attempted this my self. This kettle is very deep so heating from the backside could be a little tricky/dangerous. Most of the pin holes seem to be towards the bottom and you would have to be pretty deep...

Thanks for your opinion day_trippr but the walls don't appear thin. It seems the holes are not realy noticable until it has liquid weeping outside. Interesting about the chlorine therory but any advice on how to do the correction with silver solder? Would it be advised to locate/mark each hole...

A couple of months ago I got a steal on Craigslist from a guy in Baltimore for a 25 gallon heavy duty Polarware Stainless Pot for $75.00. It even had the original sticker still attached. I don't even have to tell you how excited I was when I discovered my 15 gallon Polarware false bottom fit...

I'm in...thanks!

Kind of like "Wiring for Dummies" (like me)? I am one that could probably benefit.

Please put my name in the hat.

fingers are crossed

In

I'm in!

I have the same pot and share a similar concern with the OP about drawing from the side vs from the center. Are you saying that there will be"NO"channeling or redirection of the wort recirculation and sparge water?

Where are you located in Virginia?

Jaybird, I have a false bottom just like the one the OP has indicated. How would you fix this and about how much would it cost?

Is it better to "dimple in" vs "dimple out"? I was under the impression that applying heat to the coupler not the solder itself is proper. Seems somtimes it could be hard to apply heat from the inside of a vessel. Does this really matter?