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It's not about getting break material into the fermenter. The act of boiling itself causes undesirable compounds to precipitate out of solution as break material. If you don't boil enough, those compounds are basically still dissolved in the wort and will cause it to stale quickly. 30 minutes...

That depends. You still need to boil enough in order to get a good protein break and get rid of undesirable volatiles like SMS/DMS. Failing to precipitate out protein/tannin complexes (break material) is also going to make the beer to stale faster down the road. Trying to achieve 8-10%...

Not to mention heat stress on the wort. The wort shouldn't be kept hot any longer than is absolutely necessary. Kunze mentions that even whirlpool times in a commercial brewery need to be kept as short as possible, because heat stress is a cumulative effect on the wort that happens even at...

That isn't true. You will get ~1 ppm per hour diffusing into ~5 gallons of water in a bucket. You can buy or borrow a DO meter and confirm this for yourself (I have). Gas always dissolves into liquids at a rate proportional to the surface area of the gas/liquid interface. The reason splashing...

It is not being completely broken down, which we have verified with sulfite test strips. I think this is actually a good thing as it offers additional protection against oxidation at the air/wort interface during the boil. The trick is tuning your dose and system such that you end up with a...

Degassing (via preboiling or yeast scavenging) and SMB are the cornerstones of LODO. It will not work on the hot side without both of those. On the cold side, you can still increase the shelf life of hoppy beers by following our practices there. But at the homebrew scale, you will not get the...

Doubtful. That thing is a HSA machine.

You can do that too.

Like you normally would, just after you've pitched the yeast. At fermentation temperatures, the oxidation reactions that we're trying to avoid in the hot side move significantly slower - on the order of hours to days, rather than seconds to minutes like in the mash and boil. The yeast will...

Do raw kernels of Pilsner malt taste like vomit? No. But just a few minutes later, the wort from the mash somehow takes on that flavor. I know what you're talking about, and what I'm trying to tell you is that LODO wort doesn't taste like vomit. It tastes like malt-o-meal cereal with honey and...

You shouldn't just look at the wort color. You need to TASTE the mini-mash wort. I already addressed your other concerns so I'm just going to quote myself: If you execute the rest of the process properly, then you will taste the difference in the final beer. A DO meter will only tell you...

What about the color difference of two side by side mashes? There's no break material there. If I had two side by side batches of wort or beer that had dramatically different colors AND flavors, I'm the kind of person who asks "Why?" But that's just my personality. At this point, I am tempted...

One very simple indicator that you've kept the oxygen level low is the color of the wort. Here is a picture of wort from side-by-side helles mashes taken by Brody over at the GBF on this thread. One is a normal mash and the other is LODO: Brody was not one of the authors of the paper, but he...

Kunze and Narziss have different opinions than Charlie and they are not lightweights. I am not going to debate Lodo any more than I already have. If you are interested in trying it, we've put a wealth of information together and posted it on germanbrewing.net. Doing the mini mash test will...

Oxygen control post ferment is absolutely worthwhile. I don't think of hot side vs cold side oxygen control as being more or less important than the other. The differences that each one causes in the beer are distinct. The "simmer" is still a boil. I'm still boiling at 212 degrees F, and...

Just brew the beer you like to drink. Nobody is forcing you to brew a certain way.

That's a really great way of summarizing it, and it explains a lot of the "debunked" homebrew dogma that actually had its roots in good ideas. If you read any professional German brewing book, what they call "secondary fermentation" is exactly what we outline in our pdf: racking to a closed...

Yes, it absolutely is confusing as it was originally written. We tried to address some of the confusion in the newest revision: http://www.germanbrewing.net/docs/Brewing-Bavarian-Helles-v2.pdf

Plan C. It's not violating LODO because you are restarting fermentation with the priming sugar.

I don't know if "misinformation" is an accurate word, as we did specify to use 100 mg/l for mash water and 10-25 mg/l for sparge water. The document was originally written assuming a standard process that employs a sparge. We never said no-sparge mashers should use 100 mg/l, and instead assumed...