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I think it would just be total wattage divided by surface area of the element. So if the element was a 10" long u-shape, the total length if un-bent would be approx. 21 or 22" depending on the bend radius. The surface area of a cylinder is pi*D*H where D is the diameter and H is the length...

Legend Brown Ale is a fantastic beer. I took the brewery tour about a month ago while in Richmond and the brewer guiding the tour couldn't (wouldn't) give me any hints at all. I guess I can understand not wanting to give away trade secrets - but in all the BYO articles I read they make it seem...

I do a lot of decoction mashes. I am also planning on going electric. I plan to use electric for heating strike and infusions, but still using propane for the decoction part. I just can't imagine having the grain in contact with a heating element. What a mess. Maybe you could set up some...

Sweeet! Count me in. Thanks.

Not aware of any pre-built package that suits your exact needs, but it really isn't all that hard to setup a safe and fairly simple controller like you are talking about. I'm sure in your searching you came across multiple references to Auber instruments. They have all the parts you need to...

Modified to use a 4-wire feed:

Thanks for the info. I just assumed it was a ground wire because it isn't insulated. Either way, I would not use it to pull off 120V with no separate ground. I am a fan of simple solutions. I think in this case I will run the correct wire to the dryer outlet and redraw the wiring diagram to...

Also, I'm trying to source some cheap finger-safe options for the contact strips. Anyone have a line on something like that?

I left out the ground for simplicity. It will be there. The question really is, whether or not the neutral line is necessary, since I don't have one. The line is 2-conductor plus a ground (dryer outlet). The transformer is only needed because there is no neutral. I could re-run the line...

Does anyone see any glaring safety concerns with the following control panel wiring plan? First let me explain what I am trying to do: 2-Tier 5 gallon all-grain single element electric system BK = converted sankey keg MLT/HLT = 10 gallon rubbermaid coolers 5500W element in the kettle...

I just re-read and see that you don't want to use the pump yet, but I still think you have a good plan there. I think the wiring diagram would work just fine excluding the parts you don't want. You probably already know about this, but the Auber project box is fairly cheap and would fit all...

I'm in the same boat. This is my plan: 1. Heat strike water in kettle 2. Pump strike water to MLT while mixing in grains 3. Cover MLT and top-off BK with water. Heat BK to mash temp. 4. Recirculate mash through HX in kettle (25-50' 1/2" ss tubing - setup like immersion chiller) for temp...

I was planning on running the 5500W element at 120V which should effectively be 1375W, unless I am mistaken. The reason for running this element is that I thought that would give me the least watt density. Thanks all for the advice. I will be sure to use supplementary line protection...

If the above would work, this is what I think it should look like: (intentionally left out the SSRs and PID, etc. for simplicity) What I would like however, is a way to not allow the second element to energize if the selector switch for the first element is on 240V. Any thoughts on this?

I have a 30A dryer outlet available and want to run a RIMS element and a Kettle element - both 5500W. The RIMS element will be wired 120V (~1375W?) and I would like to wire the kettle element to be selectable for 120v or 240v. I will run 240V during boil only (the RIMS element will be off) and...

Another idea I was thinking of was to find a pipe nipple - say 1.5" or 2" ID and drill a hole right in the side of the cooler (horizontally). Then use a NPT locknut with washer on the inside and connect the outside to a coupling. The pipe nipple would have to be just the right length (maybe...

Actually, that was going to be my question for you. I have seen one way of mounting the element in a plastic cooler, but it seemed kind of unsafe. Basically drilling a big hole (2.5" or so) through the outer shell in the bottom center and smaller hole (1.25") through the thin inner skin. Then...

I have basically the same setup with keg for kettle and 2 rubbermaid coolers (not electric yet). I was thinking about doing a RIMS system for recirculation and installing an element in the kettle. So I would heat the strike water in the kettle, then pump to the MT. Then heat the sparge water...