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Maybe a dumb question, how long was the ethanol at -10? Second, maybe the stagnation inside the fermenter is causing the large delta. Also the outside temperature will have an affect on the final temperature of the fermenter. The chiller has to fight that heat source constantly versus a...

Be careful with the strike temperature if this is your first full volume BIAB. At 9 gallons, you will only need to heat the strike water a few degrees above your targeted mash temperature. I feel overshooting your mash temperature with a full volume mash is very easy for a beginner.

I really enjoy the DIY aspect of home brewing. So I would do it again. I would have done a couple things different or remove steps from here. One being, start with an ezboil out of the gate (still make the cheap controller first). And use a TC fitting for my element. I see nothing wrong with...

Be sure to wrap the threads 6 times around with plumber's tape.

You will want the head space for BIAB if you ever plan to do full volume mashes. I recommend 15 gallons for a 5 gallon batch size. That is what I am currently running.

Problem is you don't have a neutral with a 3 wire 240v system. The black and white wires are both 120v at different phases and a ground. So the statement around a neutral will not be valid in a household application.

I recall looking into these portable gfcis until I realized this is for a single leg 240v. Be sure this unit is what you want before buying it. I ended up going the traditional route with a normal breaker. I think a spa panel is your best bet.

I started out the way you're proposing. My signature has a link that shows my progression over the last year.

Here is why I do NOT do recirculation: 1. Higher Efficiencies. 2. Clearer Wort. Here is why I DO recirculation: 1. Maintain mash temperature at the center and the outer regions of the mash without having to insulate my kettle. 2. So I can say F-it to strike water calculations! I recirculate my...

Glad, the conversion factors are estimates. Do a Google search, and you will find the hydrometer is always the best option for fermented beer. A pain since you have to use so much beer.

Are you do a conversion for the refractometer? These are not meant to be used with alcohol present in solution.

A GFCI breaker will have an auxiliary neutral attached to the breaker. That needs to be connected to ground bus bar. No extra ground rod required unless you are running a permanent sub panel.

So another update. 15 months ago I began the journey into electric brewing. Starting with a brew kettle with and element, then moving to the eBIAB system. I am now ready to commit more money to my controller after learning what I need. I ended up going with this kit from Auber, found here. I...

No issues at all. 1 year of use.

I have a panel from this company. I bought this Breaker after a lot of research and a little hope.

Ended up buying the 100ft roll of 10/3 copper on Amazon for ~$115. Versus $50 for 100ft of a 10awg copper wire, decided to take the $65 hit and do it right.

Thank you, this answers all my questions. I will have to think which option I will prefer doing. I was trying to save $100 if possible, without an obvious violation (but remain safe always). I knew there will be issues, so that is why I asked before buying anything.

is that existing 8/2 run copper or aluminum? Aluminum is it nm (romex) cable? Yes how is it presently installed (e.g. routed through wood studs, in a conduit, etc.)? Routed in an exposed (painted black) ceiling in the basement, then routed into a wall (5 feet) to the outlet. is the existing...

I already have a 8/2 run to a 30Amp GFCI Breaker. Seeing if I can salvage that run.

My current eBIAB setup is connected to a 3-wire 240VAC 30AMP service. I would power my pump off a separate 120VAC outlet. I am now upgrading my (Cheap) junction box panel to the following Auber Kit. I will need to upgrade my service to a 4-wire configuration by running a neutral wire from my...