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I switched to having my probe next to my element inside the kettle. (Originally in the same position as you have it.) There is a lag from the element to the lid. The system maybe heating your wort too much below the basket. In my case it was 3-5 degF hotter than the lid.

Here's a quick video explaining what has to be done in the EZBoil.

Don't get me wrong, I would like a dedicated brew space with a 3V electric system, but for the mean time, I have a 240V 30A outlet in my garage, and a eBIAB setup I can store in the basement and carry up to my garage the night before a brew day. And when my day is over I carry everything back...

The EZBoil controller can be done with a delayed start, just set the initial tempt to a value below water/room temp for the number of hours you want to delay. I have tried this personally, and it works!

Doug over here has a whole bunch of them. Just take a gander around.

This is where I noted the following... Although subtle, I do agree time needs to be a factor here. Be sure to think out what kettle you will want to use your EZBoil for. If Mash, you may want to buy the version that can program step mashing. That was a nice upgrade that I went with over the...

The funny thing, as I am reading I was thinking the Inkbird for you then had to laugh when i read the last question. I will suggest thinking where do you plan to go with this setup? If you plan to add to it in the next couple years, maybe building your own setup is preferred then you can reuse...

I could not agree more. If you do know where you want to go, you may have checkpoints along the way. For example, I wanted to end up at a eBIAB, but I initially just made an electric kettle for my boil and strike water while using my cooler mash tun for about a year before making that jump...

I like the condenser since I can keep my garage closed during the winter.

I would recommend reading up on this, before making a decision: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/boil-kettle-condenser-no-overhead-ventilation-needed.636955/unread You can buy a preassembled kit if you want: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/steamslayer.htm

The bottom of my element sits the width of my index and middle fingers from bottom of the kettle. I am not at my house to actually measure it until after Xmas.

You will need to keep the temperature probe plugged in, otherwise the ez boil will not function. I did this and ended up changing the location near my element at the bottom of the kettle. Reason is the response time of the temperature has a large lag and I saw large overshoots.

That two second cycle time on Auber PIDs is a killer. I ended up switching to Auber EZBoil. It's plug in play to the Auber PID without modifications in wiring or panel cuts.

Start with a simple boil kettle conversion from propane to electric. There you just need a simple controller to maintain boil. After that you can build up into two different paths, eBIAB or eHERMS depending on your end game (since you are already 3V, may stick with that). I personally went eBIAB...

I prefer step bits that go up to 7/8". I usually stop at 13/16" step, but if you accidentally go to 7/8" you can still get a great seal.

So I ran a performance check on the chiller with 6 gallons of water starting at boiling with recirculating the water for 5 minutes at boiling to simulate a standard sterilization process. Then I cut the power to my element, and turned on the tap water (58 degF) and began recirculating. I then...

I just got back home and checked this evening, I did not see any corrosion or rust. Now I could only see 1-2 inches inside.

It has arrived! Overall build quality is spot on. I have to wait for my fittings to arrive from BobbyM then I will run a test run with 6 gallons of water at boil to pitch temp. I have too much beer in the backlog right now to brew anything (2 fermenters filled currently). So this is my best...

I pulled the trigger on this cooler and it comes tomorrow. I was trying to decide between this and the stout. I when for this due to the price and I only run 5 gallon batches. Also I run with camlocks versus tri-clamps, so the 1/2 npts actually were a plus for me. I am coming from a 25 ft copper...

Short Circuit Brewers has a channel on YouTube where there go through step by step of building and explaining a controller for a HERMS setup. They also use nice animated graphics explaining the circuit diagram. I suggest you head over there and take a look.