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So with the help of @doug293cz and @ChocolateMaltyBalls I was able to get this to where it was electrically safe to run. You can see them coach me along in the electric brewing forum here on this thread:https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/will-you-check-my-diagram-521805/#post6790165

17" wide by 4" tall by 1/4 thick abs plastic. I would prefer not to put a bunch of holes through it, so is it safe to epoxy a board to the back and screw the components to that? And it is a discarded sunglasses display here is the build thread if your interested...

Yea I gotta make it difficult because I want to make it semi-victorian/steampunk appearing. Plus knife switches bring back cool childhood memories of Young Frankenstein.

What do you folks think? completely ridiculous? It looks like I could get it done with an 8 strand wire plus a 15a rated ac power cord and a extra wire or 2 to the halfway point. The red spot on the rims tube is a horrible representation of a 120vac led.

The problem now is that I wanted to only have the things on the panel be at the top and all the other contactors, ssr, etc hidden in the cabinet located at the bottom. I managed to get myself lost on how many wires are running up and down the sides. Planning on buying multistranded wire except...

Yes I want to use the knife switches and absolutely want them safe that is why all the extra hoopla to make them low voltage and low current. I agree on to many led indicators. I plan on keeping the one after the flow switch and the one mounted in the rims tube.

Yea I see your point, Thanks again

Ok hopefully the last time I need to bother you fine people this is the final draft I hope.

Cool, thanks, its getting a little complicated appearing now. Do you know if I can add a resistor to make the 12v led work on 24v or do I need the step down? edit: disreguard question I found the exact same led's in 24 volt for cheaper than the step down.

Alright here is my attempt at an updated diagram. I was playing around with the PID and discovered that the SSR output is 24volts dc. So now I run into a problem with the one red 12v indicator led. I solved by putting a stepdown 24v to 12v circuit, but could I just add a large value resistor...

ok another revision with the original single pole contactor. everything look ok with this or am I gonna die?:p

Revised with new contactor if it is acceptable. Font changed to arial

Cool, your the expert compared to me, I'll trust your judgement. I did find this is it acceptable? Thanks again for your time

Yea gonna cover that with an 40 to 170 degree analog thermometer that I bought or this:

yea didn't change it in photoshop and would this work instead, because I can't seem to google up a 12v coil double pole contactor? http://www.ebay.com/itm/30A-High-Current-Contactor-Switch-12V-Electric-Relay-Board-DC-Power-Control-new-/111288479921

What I am trying to do is use the ssr as a power switch which allows me to power on the whole shebang with 12v knife switch rather than having 120 volts to the exposed switch. I didn't put a switch between the ssr and the element because I don't want 120v at the panel on the exposed knife...

These are making the rounds here in Montana. My brother in law was drinking them at Christmas. I've been having him save them for my barley wine. To date he has drank 8 of 24, why couldn't my sister have married an alcoholic.:D I figure my bench capper should be able so seal down the caps...

Can the electrical geniuses out there please check my work to make sure that I wont kill myself on my first e-BIAB day. Shown LeD's are for illustration only I have 12v panel rated ones. (just couldnt find a good picture.) Using knife switches as an aesthetic, although they do add...

Today was a fairly nice day at @ 60 degrees so I was able to head out to the garage and outside to get some more work done on the conversion. Today was cutting and fitting a panel for the controls. I didn't use the old panel because I had holes cut through it for the sunglasses logo. Cut a...

Chuck Norris can speak French... In Russian.