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The problem here is if you've seasoned your aluminum pot properly, you've built up a serious oxide layer on the surface and have thus passivated the aluminum available to the solution which will stop its protecting the iron in the element!

It wont matter if you cut the anode and expose its steel core. As long as there is electrical continuity between the Mg and the steel, the Mg will preferentially corrode while the steel will stay rust free. This image shows a new vs. old anode...

It works only when there is an electrical connection between the Mg and Fe in the element. If you look up the standard reduction potentials of those two metals, you'll find that Mg has a far more negative reduction potential. Therefore when electrically connected to the Fe in your element, the 2...

Uuuuuuuuuuuupdate time! :d

Unless you manage to get your 575's for the same price as a 525 :D In reference to the clearance issue... unless your taps are inset into the collar or you use ridiculously large tap handles, they should clear just fine.

Thanks for sharing your personal technique Pdeezy.. Tried the creamer feature out on my Perlick tonight. I'm pushing around 12psi, the pour was like any other non-creamer Perlick, resulting in about 3/8" to 1/2" of head in a pint. I stopped about 1" from the top and pushed back on the handle. A...

Beautiful car. What year?

I'd say its fairly typical. One thing you can do to speed up your day is to put everything away very clean and dry (and store it so that it stays that way) then come time to use it, all you do is rinse a couple times, sanitize and you should be good to go. I suppose in the end it all works out...

Nice looking setup.... do we get a full pic of the car? :D

star san is a mixture of acids... the caustic cleaner you used is basic. Mix the two and you will get a reaction that could be responsible for the smell... Given that plate chillers are known to hang onto things - its a distinct possibility! If you mixed your star san right, you should have no...

To me it looks like the glass was scarred/scratched... If a concentrated overnight soak of hot oxyclean doesn't remove it - I'd be surprised if it is a deposit at all. My bet is damaged glass. I wouldn't worry about it too much until it starts affecting your beer!

noob1, I seem to have the same affliction as you do. Set and forget was my preferred way, but seem to be plagued by the odd phantom leak here and there. Very frustrating! So now my valves remain off when I'm not serving...

If its a new Siemens panel like it says it is, I don't think you have anything to worry about. This is why GFCI's have a test button, no?

Did a little digging... This might save us some cash, CSA approved too!

I was at HD lastnight looking for one of these. Epic fail, none in stock. Still kinda miffed by the code/price. The difference between these and the $50 items that HD.com sells is these are 120 and 240, whereas the HD.com ones are 240V only... I wish I could save the $150 and just run the $50...

Got my 575 yesterday. Its on the shank now, but my oatmeal stout won't be ready for another 2 weeks to test. In dry operating the faucet, it seems to have a normal pour pull, with about ~3/4" back push for the creamer function. Not sure if that helps or not. I'll report back again with results...

Being the more adventurous sort, I'd put the thing in a rubbermaid bin or something like that and fill it to the brim. Move it around, tap the side... etc, give it the same sort of abuse it would take in a typical brew. If it holds, well... giver.

So glad I found this! Here's mine.

Interesting... I have just ordered some perlick 525's and a 575 creamer directly from perlick. I'll report back how mine works when it arrives.

I'm wondering if its a pressure thing? Maybe the Perlick 575's need more pressure behind the beer to force it through the little creamer holes? I know that a true creamer faucet like the ones used for guiness require a pressure somewhere in the neighbourhood of 30psi behind them...