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I don't know how to modify that specific kettle to make it siphon better but I have a boil kettle with a similar lower drainage valve that was frustrating to use because I couldn't adjust it properly to get the clearest wort into my fermenter. I finally just quit using it and bought a high...

I almost always keg my 5 gal batches in two 2.5 gal kegs. They fit in my refrigerator better and make it easier to transport to gatherings, etc.. I don't usually even leave my CO2 tank connected to them all of the time. For the first week I apply 12 psi or so every other day as I carbonate...

That is a very reasonable thought. I often now do two back to back overlapping batches on the same brew day to save time. If I can do 1 batch in 4-5 hours, I can 2 batches in only 6-7 hours. The second batch only takes about half the time by doing the second mash while I am doing the first...

That is bs. The OP has simply been in bars and ordered nitrogen poured beers and has enjoyed the small bubble, creamy, foamy head that slowly develops in the glass. I had a friend that was a bartender at an Irish pub and the Guiness distributor made him take a course on the proper pour of a...

Disagree with that. A good nitrogen stout is awesome. That being said, it is too expensive for me.

I bet you would have had a very good beer if you would have just spent one week reading and studying John Palmer's How to Brew book ($16 on amazon). I also bet that your next beer will be very good too if you don't skip this important step. All of the little things add up to make a big difference.

I think I spent 2-3 hours one day reading everything I could find and taking notes from John Palmer about water chemistry (short of his long water book). I probably learned about 85% of what I needed to know to make good beer in that time. It isn't that complicated if one is willing to spend...

Sometimes I think that all the brew hardware companies trying to make money have made the whole process more complicated than it needs to be. I can afford anything I want to buy but I think I can make great beer with a very high efficiency process and the least cleaning hassle with a simple...

This one has worked well for me for well over 1 year. https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Submersible-Thermoplastic/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=superior+pump%2C+1%2F4+hp&qid=1617419144&sr=8-3

It is hard to add anything to the above but a yeast starter is a simple but very effective way to start a good fermentation. The yeast is the star of the show and can use all the help we can give it.

My typical process is to ferment for 2 weeks, then do a pressure transfer to the purged keg, then immediately cold crash and cool down to about 38-39 degrees (serving temperature) in the keg with about 12 psi of CO2 and tap 1 week later. Ales are easy and fast compared to lagers.

I don't know anything about that spunding valve and my other Brewtech stuff is great, but one thing I like about my Spundit 2.0 spunding valve is that it is made to easily connect a hose from the output side which also allows me to purge my kegs with fermentation CO2. I would miss that added...

I don't even bother to check FG anymore and instead just wait 2 weeks before transferring. Even if it is done with active fermentation sooner, it will benefit from more time to develop.

As I recall I pay about $20 to exchange a 5 lb tank and $25 to exchange my 20 lb tank. You are mostly paying for their time to fill them and not the gas. I also learned that the path of least resistance is to not be emotionally attached to your shiny tank and just do tank exchanges. There...

Do a web search in your area for welding supply shops. The tanks I get at our local welding supply store are marked as "liquid beverage grade" or "food grade" on the side of the tank.

This makes a lot of sense to "jerry-rig" a home propane transfer system (with upside down propane tanks) to save having to buy or refill a relatively inexpensive extra tank. It is hard to imagine anything that go wrong here that would put the family and house at any risk. I should maybe even...

I would just transfer your beer to the keg however you want (the less oxygen exposure the better), hook up your CO2 at 12 psi (or whatever your desired carbonation level required from the calculator) and have perfectly carbonated beer in 1 week. There is no need to mess around with sugar and no...

You were far better off milling it yourself. Now you should know what your exact mill setting was (assuming you have a feeler guage) so when you calculate your efficiencies on your brew day you can make adjustments for your next batch. The crush looks fine to me but I would go by the...

Personally, I would just brew a normal beer and drink half as much if alcohol was an issue. There are also quite a few lower alcohol session beer recipes that would make more sense than a watered down experiment. To each his own though.

I think you are asking the wrong question. The question should probably be - When is pressure fermentation worth trying? A spunding valve is just a piece of equipment to help and allow pressure fermentation. I would instead start to research pressure fermentation. I also don't think the...