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Rheem makes a 120v 3000w copper element that is very nice. As you said that would be a 30amp circuit but other than that it would be good to go.

I started a 5 gallon batch of caramel apple cider a week ago. Rehydrated the Nottingham yeast and pitched (a little cold like 50 degrees F). Fermentation took maybe 48 hours to start I think due to the cold cider temp but once it started, BOOM! The Nottingham even blew out of the airlock and all...

Then the gasket that came with the element you put over the threads, insert it into the hole on the kettle and locknut on the inside (or use a welded 1" coupling)?

TH and Dert- first I don't mean to hijack this thread but I agree with the safety fact and I want to make sure I understand how you did your elements. You drilled the hole in the box, inserted the terminal side of the element into the box and then welded the attached 1" nut to the outside of the...

I would replace it with the 4 prong for sure and make sure to use a GFCI.

I thought I read someplace that someone listed a place to have the front control panel covers cut. Anyone know what this place is?

PJ- thank you. Your input is appreciated as always. The 3000w were 120V so yes that would put me over the 20amps. I know you make some great diagrams. I would understand it if it was 1 element and could probably figure it out but if its not too much trouble I would definitely not turn down your...

Oh they aren't to one room. One goes out to the garage (where ill be brewing) the second is the outside circuit for the outlet on the back of the house and the third ill run out of the house with a cord.

Ill have a total of 3 circuits but one will be used for the pumps. I was thinking one would power the pumps (2), and one circuit for each of the two elements in the HLT. Then when it's time for the boil, I'd flip the switch to move the two circuits to the boil kettle? Does that make sense?

Yep that's how you wire the terminal block (you don't need that last jumper since you have nothing to attach it to.

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I actually didn't think about wiring the elements in parallel but that's a great idea. I will get a bigger SSR and heat sink to match. I'd love to just go with a single bigger element but due to only having 120v, I think a single element would take forever to...

Oops. My fault. I meant do they do away with the HLT not the MLT. Typo, sorry.

Ok so I thought I had my mind set on a HERMS system but reading a HERMS vs RIMS post on here and watching YouTube videos, I have to ask, can you do away with the MLT if you run a RIMS tube?

Is 500 psi what they fill 5lb tanks too? I work in the medical field where 2000 psi is the norm. I was wondering why mine was only filled to 500. I'm new to kegging, sorry.

I want to run 4- 3000w elements (2 in HLT, 2 in BK). I know I'll need 4 SSRs but I want to run 1 PID per tank. Anything wrong with just wiring the SSRs (2 per) in parallel coming off the PID?

What spacing did you use between your lower wheels? What diameter did that get your coil to?

Oh trust me Phreaky, it's over for them but not for me. I need to upgrade from a 100 amp to a 200 amp service because the panel is full, then ill run a sub panel out there. I will have this done. Short term though ill just deal with the 3 circuits.

Thanks tre9er

Oops sorry. I meant how long would it take to get 2-2000 watt elements to boil 8 gallons

All 3 circuits will be 20amp. Will one PID run 2 SSRs in parallel? Any guesstimation on how long it'll take to get 7-8 gallons to a boil with 2 of the 4500 watt elements?