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I do 30 minute boils on most beers in my Anvil 110v (and previous cooler and mash tun setup), with no ill effect. I do longer boils for more malt forward beers. The beauty of the Anvil is the timer delay. I am an early bird when it comes to brewing, so I set the timer the night before and my...

So strange.

Just curious, did you figure the carbing issue?

I have used the following method for the last 10 years and it has never let me down. 35 psi for 24 hours. purge and set at serving pressure. at 24 hours, it is not at full carbonation, but you can drink it if you are in a hurry. another 2 days at serving pressure should get it right where it...

4 ounces is a lot for a keg hop (my opinion as the hops will swell in the tube), but that would not affect the carbonation. Have you tried keg hopping with a different method? Maybe the tube is the problem? Or the manifold? These days I only truly keg hop if timing is an issue, otherwise I...

Something is off. Seems like a dumb question, but do you have both the CO2 turned on at the tank and at the regulator? It there an issue with the poppets on your keg or the gas ball lock? I dry hop in the keg all the time with no issue. The only time I have had issues carbing is if the the...

Don't know about metal ones for the Fermonster, but I change my spigots out for the bottling bucket spigots. They seem a bit more "robust" than the stock ones. On my Speidel fermenter, I changed out for a stainless steel spigot, much better.

The Anvil 110 volt isn’t that bad. It is what I use. If you are an early bird like me, I set the timer so when I wake up in the morning, the water is already heating or hot. I am done usually within 5 hours total including clean up.

I kegged first, then went all grain, albeit not far apart. I figured if I bought a kegerator, and gave up brewing, I could still have taps of whatever beer I wanted....Win Win. I started all grain brewing later that year. The most daunting thing was getting the process and timing down, leave...

Understood. BTW, my existing shanks were purchased from Williams Brewing in 2016

I am thinking of replacing my current Intertap standard faucets for the Nukatap Flow Control faucets. I have read that some users have had issues with them leaking due to them not having a rear gasket when sealing to the shank. But alot of these threads just die with no final input on the...

I would order from Williams or KegWorks to be safe.

Note from the Williams site: " The shank itself fits all beer faucets, but the self closing function is only possible with Intertap Faucets and the Nukatap Faucet Spring. This does not fit Duotight fittings, it has a hose barb for 3/16" or 1/4" beer tubing. "

you can try this one too. (I believe it is the same one) https://www.kegworks.com/gooseneck-draft-beer-tower-shank-assembly/

Yes, I edited the post. I believe I originally bought them from Williams, but they are not the same. The More Beer ones seemed more like the correct ones. I don't see why a shank would work for Intertap/Nukatap, and not Perlick. The connections and threads on the faucets are the same.

I bought a version of these years ago as the original elbows that came with my tower were more of a 45 degree angle and made changing lines a royal PITA as they crossed over each other. https://www.morebeer.com/products/intertap-beer-shank-short-tower.html I have run standard, Perlick, and...

Boils off is scheduled is set to 1/2 Gallon per hour....Which is pretty accurate. (I normally only do 30 minute boils.) All final volumes are usually spot on.

I was going to try that next, even while using the bag. Just worried the "prongs" on the inside of the ring may rip the bag.

1.25 quarts/lb, not gallons.

Anvil is 10 Gallon Version - 120V Grist Ratio calculated at 1.25/Gallon - however set default sparge volume to 2 gallons. Math checked out volume wise