Search results

It's plus or minus 30ppm in red wine. What about traditional mead? Would it be more accurate in mead or, for some reason, less accurate?

Unfortunately, it's not as easy to avoid as that, though. According to the second article that loveofrose linked to, you also need to compensate for any other kind of binding that might happen too.

I just don't see myself running a test that involved very often. I guess that means I would need the fully automated test kit.....

I followed the recipe in the OP, and the result was, at least for me, more of a starting point. The wine the recipe produced had an almost astringent taste to it. Backsweetening with a lot more additional honey helped considerably. I think supplementing with oak tannins will help add some...

Which one of the three sulfite test kits did you buy?

The second link on SO2 management refered to a chart that, unfortunately, wasn't in the article. However, for the convenience of anyone reading this, I think I found a very similar chart to reference:

Aha! Makes sense. So, I assume therefore that adding bentonite after stabilization will likely wipe out even more of the sulfite? i.e. it is better to follow these steps: 1. cold crash 2. rack off the clearer portion 3. apply bentonite and wait for it to settle 4. rack off the clear portion...

https://www.delish.com/food-news/a27377185/costco-is-selling-canned-cider/

It seems like stabilizing may (?) also help with clarifying the must. I had a couple of test batches that I cold crashed, with little to no visible improvement--still very cloudy. But after adding the stabilizing agents and continuing the cold crash, a lot settled to the bottom and they...

Well, your examples aren't meads. That muddies the water with extraneous data.

Something is wrong. What temperature? Is it a straight traditional mead, or is there other stuff in there?

How many days after pitching does your mead go clear? I suspect the one month figure you're referring to is about that length of time, give or take.

OK, so stabilize first and then age. Time for my noob question then: exactly what is doing the aging during the aging process if the yeast are largely incapacitated? Is it simply very slow to happen chemical reactions, or is it the yeast that have somehow managed to survive the stabilizing...

My hunch is that it's better to age before stabilizing, so that the yeast can do their thing of "cleaning up" the mead unimpeded.

"Now Includes our Universal Harness for lifting, transporting and ensuring your Big Mouth Bubbler lid stays in place during even the most intense fermentations. A $22.99 value!"

Supposedly it's included for free.

It's just a matter of feeding Hornindal the nutes it needs, which, granted, do appear to be a lot more than demanded by most other yeast strains. But, yes, both Voss and Hothead seem easier.

What is the procedure for drying it exactly? Do I just smear it on baking paper and put in a food dehydrator or something? I have a jar of the Hornindal yeast cake leftover from the original fermentation. Not sure if that's necessarily a good candidate for drying or not, but, if so, I could...

Thanks! :)Because of your influential commentary, I ordered one: https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/siphonless-big-mouth-bubbler-ported-6-5-gallon

I'm using it as an anti-oxidant, and so I'm just sticking with the 1/8tsp per gallon directions that are printed on the packaging. I doubt such a small amount will have any sensory effect.