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I just wanted to add that I ended up going with the auber wire because I wanted the quick disconnect on both sides and didn’t want to have to solder it again. If the eBay wires are just like this, then great. Because this one seems to be so much better build quality then my old wire. My old wire...

Hmmm, I was thinking of purchasing an auber cable and RTD as a replacement. Not so sure now. I was looking at the cables that’s made over at theelectricbrewery.com. They do look nice, but pricey though, and comes only with an Xlr end on it. Better I guess, but I have a regular quick disconnect...

Yea that’s what I was figuring. Like I said, it appears to be a pretty cheesy unit. I bought the RTD w/wire, with a 40a omron ssr and an ‘n2006p’ PID as a package deal for what I think was a decent price shipped from another member on here. For now, no complaints on the ssr or the PID. The PID...

Beer baron cool build. So your not using a PID or any other type of controller? your just using a manual pwm to the ssr? I was going to use that volt/watt/ammeter but I decided on a smaller one that lit up red on top and green on the bottom to match the PID. That box looks a little tight but...

Interesting. Thank you for the heads up, however, I don’t think I’ll have that problem. My panel is actually a plastic box. The wire is metal braided, and came with only a disconnect on one side. The other side I removed the fork terminals and soldered a quick disconnect on so that it can be...

Thank you Auggiedoggy. Doug had stated that previously as well. I’m very glad to hear from the both of you that running above the 80% circuit capacity is ok. As you could tell, that was my major concern. Since that first test I have tested the system with water 2 other times and then performed...

Thank you for your response. This is what I was really looking to hear. I did a maiden brew yesterday with the system. I ran the boil between 90 and 100% the whole time just to try and maximize boil off as I overestimated grain absorption. My Pv values began to jump around about half way thru...

This was something I had thought too, but I couldn’t seem to find much info on. When I google it, I got the fusing current of 12 gauge at 235 amps and that it is rated for 20 amp, but not much else. I think perhaps my wording isn’t the best when searching. I have no interest in pushing more then...

I do have a clamp ammeter, I took a few readings while operating the controller. The element was pulling roughly 17 amps. It is a fluke meter but it’s resolution isn’t anymore then a tenth of an amp. I also installed a volt/ammeter on the panel. During full tilt running with the pump...

I think I will. I also had a small led tv on, on the same circuit during the first test, so that could’ve pushed it over as well.

I have only a couple of crimp connections, at the relay and I’m pretty sure there right, but I’ll give I’m a once over to be sure. Doug, its good to hear that it can be fairly common practice for others to do it as well. Once it got up to boil i dialed it back to 80%. I think that’s as much I...

I haven’t gone down to the basement to look, but I know it’s romex which is considered UF or NMC, so I’m sure it’s rated for 60*C. I replaced the input line where the fuse holder was with another piece of 12 gauge, and re tested tonight. All the wiring stayed much cooler and the breaker did not...

Understood. But without sounding like a moron what is that table saying? If its rated for 60c it’s only capable of 20 amp max? Is that what it’s saying?

My house is pretty old, but the panel was upgraded in the earlier 2000s and the wiring was replaced. Its a square d qo breaker. I’m running a 20 amp gfci outlet. Nothing else is on the circuit except the stove, which is a gas range, and a tv that’s in the kitchen. I did have the tv on at the...

I tried searching this on google but didn’t find too much. I wasn’t really sure the proper wording for asking it. If its been answered before I’m very sorry. Here’s what I have going on. Built a 120v 20 amp control panel, running a 2250watt tri clamp element off of it. Just finished the build...

Thank you guys for the responses. I actually wanted to go with boil coil, so I decided to start measuring for placement in my kettle. However, I bought my kettle second hand and the previous owner had already installed a whirlpool port about an inch or so above the drain valve so there wouldn’t...

What combination are you using the azacca/bravo/citra hops? Is any particular one used more for dry hopping or whirlpooling?

Augiedoggy, my apologies. I did google and saw a few threads. Most of the ones I immediately saw pertained to 240v units, which really shouldn’t be any different in comparison of the boil coil vs tc element, but I was looking for a little info particularly on the 120v units. From what I’ve read...

I searched this a little on google and only found a little bit of info. I’m doing a 120v 20amp controller. The controller is completely done and all that’s left is a heating element. I cant really decide. I like that the boil coil is supposed to be less then ultra low watt density, does not...

Thank you for the response guys. I agree that I definitely had no plans to go beyond 5 days for dry hopping, was just getting some idea as to when. I wasnt sure if I should be dry hopping at high krausen like a hazy style ipa, or towards the end of fermentation. I like the suggestion of doing it...