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I only meant for the 2 primary hot legs, which would also kill the pumps if needed. His build has no mention of a primary contactor/switches which leads me to believe hes just powering it on/off by plugging/unplugging the entire box from the wall..which isn't really a safe solution.

I have 3 stir bars for this reason, i dont even bother trying to keep it out anymore.

Doug got most of it, but you'll definately want a main power kill switch and pump switches to turn them on off. The amp rating of the switch shouldnt really matter because you shouldnt be letting that much current through there anyways, its a safety hazard, they should be used to control...

I think they will climb better on something a bit rougher, why not just get thicker rope that will last more than a year? Mine this year are strung up on some probably 1/4" rope.

As a engineer and father I approve of this message :) If your open to putting the schematic and BOM info up on the Wiki for others that would be great :)

Brewed a week ago and its now at 1.013 or so, gonna monitor it the next few days keeping it @ 64F. I know the enemy is esters at higher temps, but at this point is there any harm in slowly raising the temp up over the next week or so to say 68-70F to finish off the ferment? Its what i'd...

No problem, ill make a note on the wiki that if you use newer than Wheezy about the apache path changing.

Yes, this is why i specifically noted Wheezy in the instructions for now. There's no reason to use the newer Debian until getting Wheezy isnt supported or downloadable anymore if ever, which is a long ways off.

Thats usually only because of dry hops to drink it as soon as possible. Just dont dry hop the keg until you know your almost ready for it. Drop hops in keg in bag and seal it back up!

This makes me wonder if there are people passing off pots that arent concord pots, i mean it wouldnt be the first time Chinese manufacturers try to outprice eachother by creating cheaper versions. I have 3 Concord 20 Gallon pots bought around August 2015, 12 holes/welds between them, used for...

Are you guys all waiting to clean your pots or what? I just take a wet dish towel and sprayer on my hose and wipe down the inside of MLT/BK, then spray it down with starsan, dry them out and call it a day even for the hoppiest IPA's that leave a big ring of hops on the walls of the pot. I dont...

I went the Strangebrew Elsinore(RPI) method and wouldnt think twice about doing it again. It allows me to keep my panel very simple, yet get all of the functionality of a PID box, plus a lot more as they now have support for Level sensors and inline PH sensors. Its not fully automated, it is...

I guess maybe it matters for some setups then more than others, i usually recirc at or near full speed with my 809HS pump and am usually setting my HLT to 2F above my target temp and hold that.

I thought this would be a bigger deal than it was for me. Brewing in 40f in a stainless table I get my 19 gallons of hlt water to temp at the rate the calculations say I should more or less within a minute of what they say. And I'm using strangebrew so I have a data log that shows it. Wasn't...

What are you using for heat? If you have a fan and dont point the heater at the bottles this should not be an issue.

By a couple days I hope you mean weeks. I never had a beer carb properly in less than 2 weeks, usually 3 to 4 to have it carbed proper

Software Engineer, C/C++ Physical layer Network Hardware Testing

If you type everything in the order I list it i can confirm you will have a working BrewPi setup. I made the instructions going step by step from a blank RPI and blank Arduino and wrote down everything i did. The only thing that could possibly happen thats not documented is if it has...

Honestly i'd just wipe your RPI and start from scratch following the guide on the Wiki(link at the top of the first post now) You could be back up and running in an hour, instead of chasing your tail trying to fix a broken system :)

If your using a bucket its easy. Drill another hole in your lid and stick another drilled rubber stopper in it. All the thermowells from those sites fit snug in a typical drilled stopper you'd use for airlocks. I drilled one center hole for my thermowell, and one off to the side for the airlock.