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If you aren't paying for welding, services, you can get the stand, gas plumbing, kettles, pump, chiller, etc. with temp control for the MLT and HLT for under $4K Add 2--3 conical fermenters to that list and I think you will go above that number depending on how big they are. It all depends on...

Nothing to it. I had a pump on my 3 tier system to whirlpool. On the single tier, you just have to let the mash rest for about 10 minutes before running the pump. The control boxes are prefabbed from Blichmann (the mount is a CRT TV wall mount). Like I said, apart from attaching a few...

Okay, but I wasn't suggesting DIY apart from draw it yourself. This is mine that I had built for me after I sold my 3-tier. Obviously, I had to source the various components separately (I had most of them already). As for Brew Steel, have you tried messaging the owner, Onehoppyguy, on HBT?

I drew up what I wanted with room to upsize a ton, took the drawing with measurements to a local welder, and had the stand done and ready for pickup within one week. Find a good welder, design it to do all the things you never thing you'll need, and you'll have it fast and probably save a lot...

I went from a gravity system to a 3 kettle/1pump batch sparge direct fired RIMS system and have not looked back. That third tier is tough. I was using a pump to whirlpool on the gravity system anyway. So it was a no brainer for me.

Should work fine. You would run the probe inline, after the herms coil I suspect. You recirculate throughout the mash, and the TOP would control the burner under the HLT. But if you have a kettle with a false bottom for a MLT, I'd suggest running it as a RIMS with a burner under the kettle...

Exactly.

Be careful whirlpooling with them. Max temp is listed at 170 degrees.

I love these. Bought mine from BobbyM. I had a 1/2" NPT port welded high on the side wall of my kettle. The Loc-Line flexible tubing screws right into that and goes wherever you need it. It is safe up to 170 degrees and food grade. Perfect for the mash tun. They also have one that has...

If you aren't going to use temp control, i.e. HERMS/RIMS, in your set up, you want to insulate the kettle and probably not start to recirculate until about half to three-quarters of the way through the mash to make sure you have conversion. At that point, the temp drop you get from pumping the...

Here is what I worked out (with some help) over the last day for a no cost solution. It helps that the previous owner of the house ran Cat5 to junction boxes in the garage and bedroom, where we have a desktop. 1. Run an Ethernet cable from the plug on the TOP to the junction in the garage...

That's another thing I forgot to mention. I run off very slow.

Even on the hurricane burner, it will work on LPG or NG. Just a matter of swapping the orifice. But your point is well taken. I couldn't tell you the size of the flame holes.

You can if you switch the tips. You can get them on ebay (10 for $20).

No. I'm using it on a single tier, 3 kettle, batch sparge system with a false bottom. But it should work similarly with BIAB. I have the cable, but have never bothered hooking up the netbook. It's just so easy to push buttons on the controller to step mash. I've been toying with the idea...

In my limited experience, as long as you don't close off any valves upstream of the hose, it will be fine. But I have made the mistake of closing off the valve on the kettle to stop flow. You're right. Cartoonish.

It works better if you can get a little pull/push going, i.e., dip tube angled one direction pulling the wort with whirlpool return angled the other direction, pushing the wort to get a good spin going. You don't need a vortex. If you had the hop blocker in there as shown in the picture, that...

If you have a Blichmann burner already, you'll only have to drill one hole to install the spark igniter. From there, it's just a matter of plugging it in. I have had mine for a year and it works well. After all of that time, I finally got around to adjusting the MLT igniter. It was moving a bit...

Interesting. I put a barbed male cam lock connection on the flexible PVC hose coming off my filter. I use my silicone hoses with female cam locks as jumpers to the male fittings on the kettle. I control flow with the valve on the filter. Just have t be sure to shut it before shutting the valve...

Well, I don't have that stand or those burners, but I'm guessing I could get 14 gallons to a boil in a bit over a half an hour. I never really timed it though.