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I’m seeing minimum shipping to Chicago of $15 per order on Hopsdirect and $8 on Yakima. Still beats buying $3 1oz packages from the LHBS but requires a substantial purchase to justify those shipping costs.

Super interesting but the quantities seem more for a brewery than a homebrewer.

@Jag75 how did you closed transfer with fastferment? I’m wondering specifically on the gas side.

I don’t mean to suggest it’s too much. Who am I to say since I’ve yet to make an IPA I’ve been happy with but I sure hope it doesn’t take over 2 oz a gallon to get the hop aroma I’m looking for or I might go broke!

Can I just say... Those dry hopping rates are outrageous. If cryo hops are twice as effective at dry hopping, then you are packing in nearly 11 ounces of hops in a 5 gal batch. Is this increase due to not getting adequate aroma based on the discussion above?

@Rainy thank you for the advice; this is encouraging. Also, it seems ironic that IPA is considered one of the easiest style to brew since the hops hide other brewing flaws, when simultaneously, it's one of the most revealing styles for highlighting oxygen ingress flaws.

It’s not that I’m sick of drinking IPAs, I’m sick of spending a ton of money on hops just to result in a bland, uninspiring beer, so I thought I would try different styles.

Please share!

Thanks for the suggestion! Revolution Brewery here in Chicago has a rye stout that’s real tasty. I haven’t had the stones to try to clone it. Last time I tried rye it was in an IPA that was a real flop.

As a recovering IPA drinker, I’m trying to branch out and brew different styles. I had a American style brown ale while at GABF in 2019 (it won Bronze in 2018 Wallops Island by Rocket Frog Brewing) and I’ve been unable to find a local replacement. I recall it had a very subtle coffee/roast...

@LittleRiver I really like the elegance of gravity transfer, especially for glass carboys. What I was ruminating is whether you could pressurize the keg in lieu of filling the mylar balloon but now I am seeing the potential issue, as it would also pressurize the fermonster if the two were connected.

@Taiters do you have a detailed review of each for our benefit?

I don't mean to hijack your thread since I've already posted by sob stories elsewhere on HBT but I fermented and dryhopped in my serving keg which prior to any temperature drop, I pressurized with CO2. It seems the cold crash took all the hops and aroma with it. I'm using a floating diptube, so...

I'm interested in this thread because buying individual 1 oz packets of hops is not cost effective, plus my process is still resulting in beers without noticeable hop aroma or flavor, despite whirlpooling and dry hopping at the suggested rates and trying to minimize O2 as much as reasonable.

Just look at the numerous frightening photos of brown/purple NEIPAs on this forum that started out light orange. What’s most demonstrative is lab tests. The hops book by Stan Hieronymous has an anecdote about a brewery that brewed a 243 IBU calculated beer which tested 117 IBU in the kettle...

If it wasn’t stated before, although a spunding valve permits you to ferment under pressure, I don’t think that’s it’s original intent - at least not in the usage of the word spunding. Although you could use your spunding valve to ferment under pressure, I think the traditional way is to ferment...

Wouldn’t it make more sense to transfer the beer to the serving keg once you’ve purged it? Then attach spunding valve to serving keg at desired pressure?

What sale prices are you guys getting on these flash sales? $5/lb?

I thought the typical process is ferment in a vessel and once gravity is X points from finishing based on fast ferment test, transfer to keg or bottles. In a keg with a spunding valve there’s room for error but certainly not in bottles. I would see it being a challenge to ferment in a glass...

Spunders, how are you taking numerous hydrometer samples without exposing the beer to oxygen?