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if you use a restricted fitting on the outlet side it wont hurt anything...you just wont get the full capacity out of the pump.....on the inlet side you could starve it and possibly even cavitate it. What you want to look for is a "full flow" fitting. they have bigger ID's to match the thread...

Yeah i know....I've been on a boating forum for over 13yrs now and most times its easier just to ask a new question then do a search for the answer.....biggest problem is when you try and search, unless you know how to word the search, you will get hundreds of results and most of which may have...

Sorry for the late reply...for some reason i didnt get a notification of a new posting....anyway you can screw directly to the threads. Just put your fitting on the pump and start it in reverse first....when you feel the "click" of the leading edge of the threads just pass each other then you...

Yes those are the only two parts you would need to convert over to SS. I can only give you the list price for the parts...you would need to call any one of the distributors to get a price. ($250 housing $2 for o-ring list)

yep, just call any distributor and they can get it for you.....in actuality all you would need is the front housing and an O-ring...

I just took a look at that link you posted and that was a special assembly pump we made for Lang Engineering. It sour MDX-3 with no front housing. They attach out partial pump assembly to their tank unit (that white box in the pics) I dont think it was designed for boiling temps....domestic hot...

If you spoke with someone today then it was either Hans or Otto....I have been breaking in the new guy in the service dept. Anyway as far as the 3B goes...if you are limited to 1/2 line in your system....you can use it as is and adapt as needed....but keep in mind you WILL need to choke the...

I bet from past experience they were dropped in shipping and the motors are tweaked. Fist thing to try is to take the pump head off and run the motor alone...if that works ok then the alignment of the pump head is off and its rubbing against the drive magnet....you may be able to align it...

yep! the only other pump we have that can do more pressure but not more volume would be our 320-CP-MD...it only does 3gpm but can make 17psi if theres enough restriction.

mmmmm....well some people have used them at near boiling temps...it all depends on how long you expose it at those temps....few minutes "shouldnt" hurt things... It would be easier for you to just change that pump head to the 3B thats made out of the polysulfone plastic that can handle up to...

sorry guys for not replying lately....was on vacation last week...and the past month has been nothing but crazyness with one of our OEM's...they placed an order for close to 1000units of our 5.5 series pumps and want them on a crazy time frame so things have been off the hook here tyring to get...

here take a look, found this doing a quick search: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XOR7FU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/s-s-3-8-mpt-x-1-2-barb.html they dont look too restrictive..

Were not talking about barb fittings though......i have a piece of 3/8" npt pipe on my desk and the ID is exactly .492" I'd have to go and try to find some specs on brass fittings but they should be more or less the same as well...

it sounds like what most motors do when they have been dropped or hit hard enough to tweak them out of alignment. If you want to send it back to me here i'll see what i can do for you.

Don't be mislead by the 3/8" size...Its not translating to the opening....when it comes to pipe fittings, a 3/8" pipe thread has an outside diameter of just over 9/16".....if you got a 1/2" barb to a 3/8" male pipe thread fitting the pump wouldn't have any problems...it may choke a bit of the...

use the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter...and if you are concerned about anything building up on the internal threads then just pass a 11/16" drill bit through it and drill the threads out. Just watch how deep you go so you dont rip rith though it the housing and ruin it! :)

cl330b check your PM as well

ekjohns, check your PM greenbirds, dril the impeller out with a 17/64" drill bit and that shoudl cure the seizing issues. The air bubbles are either a leak from a possible pinched o-ring or you could be cavitating the pump if you have enough restriction on the inlet side. Usually choking off...

Well the pump head itself can withstand temps higher then the 250* we rate it for....the issue at that temp is the magnets themselves start to loose magnetism. As for the motor, it has a thermal overload built into it....im not 100% sure tot he rating but it should be somewhere between 203-221*F...

Ok, the first pic should be our 5.5 series pump impellers. You can see the center section where the shaft goes through, a line that looks like you can fit a flat head screwdrive into...thats our wear indicator. As you can see the impeller on the left is worn down to almost nothing compared tot...