Search results

part# is 0809-0150-0000

Depends on which pump you use for this....from what i have been told by others who have looked in to Starsan....it can lift Teflon....now that’s off of Teflon lined pans etc....so I’m not sure how it would affect the actual Teflon washer we use in the 809's....if you were using the...

easiest way to get the shaft out is to force it by hand to one side and then wiggle it out...since the pump head is no good it doesnt matter if you make the hole the shaft is in any bigger. As far as getting it back in the new one....you should be able to start it into the "D" slot in the pump...

Those types of pumps are positive displacement units and have a pressure sensor built in to the unit to monitor for pressure loss...when it see a drop it kicks in to raise it back up. Not what ours do. What he was talking about, you can find the setup at you local home depot or Menards...you...

From what i know about VFD....it only works right on 3 phase motors For these single phase units you would need some sort of PWM...but ive never really looked into it before. Some of our customer do get into things like this but you are talking about place thats have a big budget for playing...

As long as there's liquid in the pump you can leave it running...its actually a very popular setup like what you want to do. Our motors are rated for continuous duty. And from what our motor mfg. tells us, if you were to just take it out of the box and run it without any maintenance like oiling...

Sorry for the late reply....for some reason i wasnt getting any emails notifying me of any new postings... Anyway part number you are looking for is 0809-0196-0600 that would give you an 815-PL with base and 6' cord (inline version) if you want the center inlet version then it would be...

the shaft sticking up farther wouldnt have any issues...it may be it just wasnt pressed far enough into the housing. From the looks of it you have both pump set up/orriented the exact same way....do you have any difference in plumbing between the two? like extra elbows/fittings etc?

Could it be the thermal overload in the motor going bad? check the electrical signal going into the motor itself and see if it stays constant when its shutting off....if it is, then its internal to the motor and not much you can do about it at this point :(

clearwaterbrewer, all the series 5 pumps are the same...you can swap them around from pump to pump....the only thing you cant really do is mix and match the pump housings if they are made from different materials....for instance you have the 5K (thats the Kynar plastic version) and you have the...

cajeffus, if the thrust washer is not there then the impeller can come in contac with the front housing and cause issues...even the screetching noise can sometimes be heard too....you can try a stainless washer from a hardware store in the mean time...just make sure it has a 1/4" hole to fit...

We never had it as a standard option...but we have made some for special orders...but they are usually ordered by the distributors or by OEMS in batches of 100pcs+ They are sent out and TIG welded on.....we usually machine the heads a little differently for welding applications so the threading...

That wear on the back is normal...the impeller moves around during use. When you have full flow with a good supply feeding the pump, the impeller gets moved to the back.... if you restrict the outlet, the impeller will float neutral. then as the level of the liquid drops and there's less head...

Yeah, i went through this with another member that was trying something like this....unfortunately our pumps don't really make big pressure. First pump i have that can actually make 40psi would be our 8 series....its a 3hp 3 phase unit and can flow 125 gallons per minute....so it would be a BIT...

Cool! :cool:

Depends on the type of pump.......If its a mag-drive you can still just choke an output valve to what ever you want it to do. Or you could get fancy with a re-circ loop and extra valves.....basicly take the output of the pump, install a "T" fitting with a valve on each output...one going to your...

Try and find the recycling number on the plastic somewhere its a triangle of arrows with a number in it. That will tell you what the pastic is made from....and decide from there....if theres nothing on it then assume its a mixed bag #7....... I found this on the net on the numbers...

No. The point at which the mag-drive slips is dependent on the torque of the magnets. In the case of the 809-HS models the magnets have a torque rating of 16 in/oz. So when you exceed that torque rating with enough stress on the impeller with some sort of resistance it will slip and de-couple...

On a mag-drive you only want to restrict the outlet...never the inlet. Its a common misconception that the mag-drive acts like a clutch...it does and it doesnt......it wont "slip" in the sense that it will allow the impeller to move at a slower speed then the rpm of the motor....the rpm of the...

the whole house filter is basicly only for sediment/rust....i didnt want to be filtering all the water like when i need to water the lawn or wash the truck or laundry etc...seemed like a big waste and then i'd have to pay for the filters more often....hell the darn filter for the fridge is...