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The stock 454's that were in there were only 330hp to begin with and the boat was a 1986 model.....I went mild on that one cause I wanted more reliability then anything else. During the 6yrs I had that boat all I ever did was change oil and spark plugs once a year and fill it with gas ! :D When...

if that's the case then with the slow speed 809 I would say it wont work as it max's out at 1.8psi. The HS models will crack them open no problem and with no head height it should give you around 4gpm....if you have around 4' of head height on top of that then your flow should be at about 2gpm...

Lol...the blu/ylw boat topped out at around 78mph after I was done rebuilding the motors..they were 454's bored .030 over and by my guess were pushing around 450hp....nothing crazy by todays standards but it was sure fun :) And yes I have fished off that boat when we were down in the Keys for...

It is my hobby...but im more in to the cigarette style boats. My first "big" boat was a 30' Scarab...the (Blue/yellow) sold that and took a break for a few years while I worked on my house...currently building a 22' Chris Craft 222 Stinger...just did the paint/body work on it and now its time...

With the series 5 you should be at about 13gpm....again not factoring the physical head height in the system...so if you had like 5' of head height the flow would be a hair over 10gpm...

If you have the "HS" models it would work...but with the resistance of the check valve in place, you would be limited to a flow of about 2gpm.... If you have the 815 pump or the upgraded impeller then your flow would be a hair over 5gpm... These flows are not factoring in any physical head...

Europe is also onboard with this no lead thing....we are working with a big name computer company right now and they use our pumps for cooling mainframes that process credit card transactions.....they are making a new system right now for Europe and the bronze housing in our pump is to have less...

It can also depend on what kind of passivation was done to it. Some process use a caustic soda as the first step to degrease and clean the part...then they get rinsed with water and put into a nitric acid bath, rinsed again and back to the caustic and then final rinse....most of the parts we...

your welcome beerandbourbon :) I find it fun to be here...even though I'm not a drinker, I love the mechanics of making your own "Thing" I personally am into offshore boats (anything with an engine really) and build my own motors.... So I like seeing you guys build your rigs...I have learned...

Screeching impellers are 99% of the time caused by lack of lubrication....could be an air pocket stuck in the pump head or the pump is not primed properly. try and keep you lines as short as possible and keep them as straight as possible to keep air moving through and out of the system. Also...

Actually ours are 8-32x1" ;) so if you wanted to put it in a box and needed longer screws then go with 8-32 x 1-1/4" should be more then long enough

If you decide to go with a check valve, just make sure to find out what pressure the valve needs before it opens. For instance on the 809-HS models, the max pressure they make is only about 5psi and that's at dead head....so if you have a check valve that has a higher opening pressure, you will...

Sorry I missed this thread...no sure how I didn't see it but going over the postings the members have hit all the bases with tubing/fitting size and orientation etc....the only thing I can add to this is for you to take the pump head apart and make sure that the Teflon thrust washer is still...

I think he talked to me about this very pump this morning....He said he couldn't find anything wrong with the motor...it runs just fine...only discrepancy he did find so far is that the pressure was a little lower then what it should be. Not sure why as of yet....I think Wayne is gonna swap an...

Send it back is all I can say....when I take it apart I inspect the main motor body for being out of round...and hammer any bent spots out then put it back together.....its hit or miss most times but i've had some good luck doing it. :)

Sorry for the late reply...was on vacation all last week.....but give Wayne here in service a call and he will take care of it for you if you haven't all ready contacted Tesco...

We still make the MDX series pumps...depending on which model you have...most are only rated to 190*F if you happen to have the MDX-MT3...you can swap out that pump head to a Kynar version and the rating goes up to 200*F We have no metal version of this pump and unfortunately no other pump heads...

Not sure what you guys mean by "elegant" but why not just drill 4 holes and mount the pump horizontally directly to the leg using the pumps base...then just clock the pumps head 90* so the outlet is at the top? Then maybe take a thin sheet of stainless and bend it over as a splash guard? Here, I...

They have a single phase of 220v and a neutral, just like we have a single phase of 115v plus neutral here....for our 230v we combine two legs of 115v....they don't have 115 unless they use some sort of transformer I think.... mhb69...you should be just fine with the way you have it setup.

Cioffi, that is an 809-HS......but judging by the worn number on the tag i'd say it was a special assembly for an OEM customer....more then likely if you don't have the pump head it had a special 809-PL that had 1" screw threads on it....and standard 809-HS will work for you. :)