Search results

Im only familiar with the shurflo's from boating and the ones i've dealt with are all rubber vein pumps....that being said if its putting too much out from you, you can make a recirc loop with a valve in the middle.....just install a "T" fitting on the inlet and outlet of the pump with a valve...

That 1/4" outlet on the kettle is whats killing everything for you....find someone that can open it up for you to 1/2" ID min or since you are already changing it i would open it to a 5/8" ID....And if you have been running the pump restricted like this for a while i would open the pump head up...

You do have the 815 pump.....those are older stickers we used so they are still out there labeled like that.....no worries :) The stainless head for the 809/815 are all the same...just call any distributor and ask for part# 0809-0150-0000 you can re-use all the old parts from the pump you have...

I think i may start a new thread for "Questions Answered by the Factory" For 2014.....may be easier to start fresh then look through 500+ postings :)

Yes it is in the "glossary of terms" :) :D but that usually only happens if you have less restriction on the outlet side of the pump then what coming in...either from too small a line or too many elbows/fittings etc....

Shielding the pumps is a personal choice.....small splashing here and there will not hurt anything...getting it soak will! These are induction motors...they work off of magnetism...what's more common for these types of motors is to have rust lock up the motor or if you spill sticky stuff on it...

Not all the pump motors need to be oiled....if you look at the white motor label...on the ones that do need to be oiled you will find it says "OIL" with two arrows pointing to the end caps of the motor. On the ends you will find a hole and if you look down the hole it will have a small channel...

All the pumps we make (including the beer) are designed for 24/7 operation. When everything is plumbed correctly (proper size tubing fittings etc) and there's nothing out of the ordinary attacking the pump (like chemicals or abrasives etc) the pump head will usually outlast the motor....the...

Its basically the same pump....we make a special assembly for Morebeer...it has a 6' cord with a plug on the end....if you were to order the standard 815 from our distributors you would get the pump with no plug on the end of the cord and they are only 3' long...

Hey that's a nice setup ya got there :D For anyone else wanting to do this type of tool-box pump setup.....the face of the drive magnet on the motor should be about 1/16" below the face of the motor bracket....so if you put a straight edge on the motor bracket where the pump would normally...

i doubt it....those spray balls from what i have seen need some pressure to work properly....you can try it with an 809/815 if you already have one....i have seen a few people use our series 5 pumps and get results but not to the full capacity of the spray ball...you would need to see what kind...

you wont harm anything with the city water pressure going through the pump.....it may de-couple the mag drive, but as soon as everything comes back down to a stop it will re-align again and you should be back in business....The metal pumps are rated for 150psi of internal pressure....most city...

Short answer...yes the 809 stuff will fit the MDX motor... Longer answer...you could change the motor bracket and install the 809 pump head.....you would also need to transfer the 809 drive magnet as the MDX is bigger and wont fit in the 809 motor bracket... the pump head outlet "MAY" be...

Drill it with the 17/64" drill bit (or the "G" if you have one) and you should have no more problems and make sure the thrust washer is there..

Is it actually seizing up or is the impeller de-coupling or even sucking in air off the bottom of the vessel and cavitating if you are at /near boiling? If it is indeed seizing up then you most likely have a very tight tolerance between the shaft and the impeller....either from a sugar buildup...

no it wont...different bracket and bolt pattern

Call us here at the factory and talk to Wayne in the service dept...i'd rather have you send us the pump head back for us to take a look at. The shafts are pressed into the housing and all leave here tight......I'm not sure if I found a shaft on the high side of the tolerance that it would fix...

BarKeepers Friend will get the rust off with a little elbow grease :D For passivation I don't know about Oxilic acid, but I do know that Citric Acid will both eat the rust and passivate at the same time. For small parts here we use this stuff : http://citrisurf.com/

I figured :D :mug:

it was actually a 30' boat that had the twins....the current 22'r has the single small block :D