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If you can get your hands on some citirc acid you can soak it in there for about 10-15min at a time then rinse with water...and it will eat the rust off and passivate the stainless at the same time. We use a product here on some of our in-house molds called CitriSurf 77 Any stainless can rust...

Assuming you have the 809 pumps...then the short answer is no......if you have a good motor repair shop that does winding....maybe.... And if you happen to have a different pump that has like 5-8 different wires coming out of it...then the label on the motor will tell you if they can be...

That 3/8" coil is a restriction for the pump......i'm betting you are in the 2gpm range right now...only way to increase flow rate would be to get a pump that can generate more pressure. Look at the friction loss table below for the 3/8" line...depending on how much you want to flow through that...

I did have one customer that was more on the "money is no option" level that made a stepper motor valve assembly with an attached flow meter and both connected to a PLC controller to vary the output via computer control.....

I don't personally know of any...i have heard rumors from customers about that.....only kind of "VFD" i know that can work on a single phase motor would be a PWM or pulse width modulation....basically it switches full power on/off to vary the speed...its like sitting there flicking a light...

Technically that's correct...but you have to keep in mind that air always wants to find its highest point...so when you start the pump up and you have air in the lines the pump has a better chance of expelling it out...and if you did have air in the lines it easier to get it out like this...

you can see in the picture the stainless rear cover that's been cut and you can see how the back end of the impeller (the silver part) fits inside it....draw a straight line across the bottom of where the silver meets the black on the impeller and that's where the air will get trapped. For short...

Ziggy, check out this thread on pump orientation: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/short-pump-orientation-mounting-tutorial-306814/ hope that explains it for you :D

honestly i don't know what that is....we don't have anything like that on the back side of the impeller housing at all. Here's what our thrust washers look like (see below) and its between the front housing and the impeller. Its that white ring sitting on the impeller shaft

i see no pic...

it depends on the severity of the cavitation...but most times its limited to the impeller itself....but i have seen it damage the pump head itself too...but its rare. most times the impeller gets seized onto the shaft from lack of lubrication....and most times you can just drill it out with a...

one last thing....are you pumping at near boiling temps? you may be pulling air off the bottom of the kettle and into the pump....thus the cavitation type results when in fact its not cavitating due to any plumbing/restriction issue.

dunnry, well....i have been reprimanded for speaking about "the other guys" pumps on the forum so for now any issues with their stuff you would need to ask them about it. :( But, what i can tell you is for the engaging issue, "they" may have a different number of magnetic poles on the impeller...

:)

what 30Bones said :) you may be able to clean up the starting thread enough to get it working before cutting it off

We don't deal with any fittings here so i couldn't suggest anyone to go to :(

you may have a fitting with fine or metric threads....try counting the threads on the fitting...ours have a standard 14 threads per inch....on the pump its about 7 threads on it depending on where you count...and its about 1/2" in length....so if you can compare your fitting that way you can see...

you can do it that way...or install two "T's" one on the inlet and one on the outlet and connect the two together with a valve in the middle.....then to initially prime the pump you have the valve closed like the pump would be in a normal operation with no valve there.....then you open the valve...

could be that the hose was to small....or could have been too long and getting air trapped in sections....or too many elbows/fittings....there's lots of variables that affect overall performance of pumps...

They are only recommending the adapters so your not screwing a metal fitting onto plastic..Many people tend to over tighten the fittings or not start the threads properly and cross thread them.....as long as you take your time....put a few wraps of Teflon tape on the threads....turn the fitting...