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I've only gone down to 40F. You can go lower if you want to. At most, you'd need to add more glycol to the mixture if you start getting ice forming. The A/C unit has more than enough power to chill all three conicals to any temperature you want. Your main restriction is the potential of freezing...

That's what I normally do for ales. After it's done fermenting, drop the temp to ~40 degrees. Come back a day later, open the racking valve until it starts running clear and then keg the beer. This keeps the bulk of the yeast out of the keg and I normally don't bother with gelatin anymore...

Just took a look at this. Here's a screenshot of the system settings page. It's under misc system settings > ProcX Force Run at Powerup Supposedly this was broken in the 3.3 firmware, but works as of 3.4. I'm going to set mine to run all four processes at start up. The downside is it...

Just extend the frame however far back you need to fit the chiller under it. This also means you won't need the backsplash for the plumbing as it'll fit in the extra space.

Looks like it might work. Just double check that you have enough space for a bucket under the dump valve, otherwise it'll be a bit of a pain in the ass to dump the trub.

Stock, you're not going to have enough slack to move the coil that far down. They're not exactly built for this purpose.

Wrap a string around the part that goes through the hole, measure how long it is, and divide the result by Pi. That's the diameter of the circle you need to cut. Not really a concern about how close to a perfect circle they are. It'll work. My main concern with cutting the holes is you have...

Are you thinking about putting the cooler to the right of the conicals? You could move the conicals closer together to save yourself some space and you might gain a foot or so without encroaching on the space below the conicals. A lot of my spacing was due to the thickness of 2x4s. If you're...

I'm going for an MBA.

If I had bothered to get my MIG welder set up, I probably would have gone with metal instead of wood. Glad to help, let me know if you need anything else.

The cart is pretty easy to make actually. The worst part is the countertops, but I used those because that's what I have in the rest of the garage. Other than that, it's all 2x4s held together with kreg screws. The only tools you'd need is a miter saw (circular saw works in a pinch), kreg...

You can use whatever cooler you want. I have an electric brewery just to the right of the glycol chiller. So, the extra counter space was a welcome addition. The only caveat I'd say is that you need to have a decent sized reservoir of glycol. Otherwise you're going to start cycling the A/C...

The main issue is that as say the glycol chills, a PID will turn on and off the A/C unit 20-50 times before it gets down to the set temp. That many cycles is a problem for an A/C unit. The same problem exists with the motorized ball valves. They're rated for ~50k cycles from what I remember. Not...

PIDs are made to frequently cycle in order to not overshoot a set temperature. While this is great for heating elements, it's not so great for the lifespan of your pump and ball valves. Also, you'd need 4 PIDs since you'd need something to control the A/C and chances are that wouldn't work too...

The problem with a PID is that it's going to frequently cycle the ball valves, which generally isn't a good idea. No, the pump doesn't constantly run. It's only on when the A/C unit is on or one of the conicals needs to be chilled.

About 1/3 of the solution is glycol. Here's a chart you can use: http://www.prochiller.com/reGlycolChart.html Mix it up however you want depending on what temp you want to keep the solution. Keep in mind you need a ~20 Deg F buffer to keep it from freezing to the coils. So if you want the...

Air is a really terrible conductor and minifridges can't cool all that much. It'd take hours to cool a 10 gallon batch and you wouldn't be able to control more than one at a time. You'd be better off using that minifridge to directly cool the wort. Also, the A/C unit I'm using cost me ~$110...

You wouldn't want to go from boiling directly in to the conicals. That's a ton of heat to displace and I doubt the plastic is really made for boiling liquids. That said, I was brewing an alt today. Ground water temps are in the low 70s at the moment. I used a counterflow chiller to cool the...

The ball valves themselves are $25 each + shipping. Switching from stainless doesn't really cut the price down. For the brewbit part, Chilling a conical requires two outputs per conical. You need one output to turn on the pump and another output to activate the ball valve. If you redid the...

You can set it as high as you want really. The only constraint at the moment is it won't go above ambient temp + however much heat the yeast puts out. There is a way to add a heater though. The controller I built actually has everything wired for a heater at the moment . During the build...